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Nineteen -Thirteen 


Rugs  and  Carpets 
From  the  Orient 


— COMPLIMENTS  OF  

Barker  Bros.,  los  Angeles,  cal. 


Who  that  has  once  seen  them 
can  ever  forget  the  imperishable 
colors,  mellowed  but  uneffaced  by 
time,  the  exquisite  designs  and 
the  predominant  grace  of  the 
genuine  old  Persian  Carpet? 

Hon.  George  N.  Curzon, 

M.  P.,  1892. 


9//<i/ rfZ 


niU.‘15 

\ia4r 


IT  is  not  the  purpose  of  this  monograph  to  deal  more  than 
superficially  with  a subject  upon  which  many  volumes  have 
been  written  and  to  which  years  of  close  application  on  the 
part  of  the  student  are  necessary  to  qualify  as  an  authority. 
The  more  closely  one  studies  the  subject  of  Oriental  Rugs 
and  the  Art  and  History  behind  them,  the  deeper  veneration  he 
Jacquires  for  the  Ancient  Weaver’s  Art  which  has  produced  such 
^marvelously  exquisite  masterpieces  as  still  exist,  chiefly 
| in  the  collections  of  wealthy  men  and  National  Museums.  If 
mot  actually  pre-historic,  the  weaving  of  rugs  is  certainly  as 
°ld  as  the  dawn  of  civilization  itself,  for  it  dates  back  to  B.  C. 
5000,  which  date  strangely  enough  is  also  ascribed  to  the 
origin  of  the  ^Violin  and  to  the  first  recording  of  human 
thought  by  hand- writing  (hieroglyphics).  Some  idea  of  the 
value  placed  upon  rare  Oriental  Rugs  may  be  gained  from 
the  Table  on  page  47,  which  gives  some  prices  paid  in  recent 
years  for  some  of  the  rare  and  costly  specimens.  Elsewhere 
m this  edition  are  mentioned  the  names  of  several  books  which 
are  recommended  to  those  desiring  a closer  intimacy  with  the 
subject  of  Oriental  Rugs  and  Carpets. 

In  addition  to  the  story  of  Oriental  Rugs  there  has  been 
inserted  a number  of  interesting  views  of  the  East,  particularly 
of  Constantinople,  the  great  rug  market  of  the  world.  Some 
of  these  are  reproductions  of  celebrated  steel  engravings,  now 
unfortunately  destroyed,  and  have  for  this  reason  an  addi- 
tional value. 


* Tradition  has  it  that  the  Violin,  as  we  now  know  it,  was  developed  from  the 
played  Ravanastron  invented  by  Ravana,  King  of  Ceylon,  B.  C.  5000. 


one-stringed  and  bow 


0 

\' 

1 


The  sign  manual  of  the  Sultans,  rudely  representing  a left  hand 


“Among  the  real,  good  oid  Persian 
carpets  there  are  very  few  patterns, 
though  coloring  and  borders  vary 
considerably.  A good  carpet,  if  new, 
is  always  stiff;  the  ends  when 
doubled  should  meet  evenly.  There 
must  be  no  creases,  or  any  sign  on 
the  wrong  side  of  darning  or  ‘fine- 
drawing’  having  been  resorted  to  for 
taking  out  creases,  and  there  must  be 
no  blue  in  the  white  cotton  finish  at 
the  ends.  Carpets  with  much  white 
are  prized,  as  the  white  becomes 
primrose,  a color  which  wears  well. 
Our  host  has  given  me  a rug  of  the 
oldest  Persian  pattern,  on  a white 
ground,  very  thin  and  fine.  Large 
patterns  and  thick  wool  are  compara- 
tively cheap,” 


PERSIAN  SAROUK 


Rugs  and  Carpets 
From  the  Orient 

A MUDLESS,  dry  climate,  the  absence  of  household  furni- 
ture, together  with  the  inherent  poetic  and  artistic  tem- 
perament of  the  Oriental,  brought  into  existence  and 
developed  into  perfection  the  marvelous  pictures  in  weaves  which 
all  the  Occidental  world  has  tried  repeatedly  to  copy,  but  in 
which  attempt  they  have  signally  failed. 

The  strict  observance  of  the  Mohammedan  laws  forbade 
any  representation  of  the  human  figure  or  that  of  birds  and 
beasts,  and  while  this  law  was  not  observed  for  long  among 
the  subjects  of  the  Persian  ruler,  the  laws  nevertheless  had  a 
great  influence  in  perpetuating  the  original  designs,  geometric 
or  floral,  and  in  developing  them  to  a higher  degree  of  perfec- 
tion. There  was  a lack  of  all  furniture,  and  therefore  the  rug 
became  the  wall  covering  and  the  all  in  all  for  interior  decora- 
tions and  utility,  not  alone  for  the  home,  but  for  palace  and 
mosque. 

The  wonderful  color  combinations,  breathing  of  and  re- 
flecting the  innumerable  tints  of  an  ever  sunny  land,  the  in- 
tricate and  symbolical  figures  wrought  into  the  product, 
whether  from  religious  or  other  motives,  demanded  a lifelong 
patience,  and  could  only  have  been  brought  to  perfection  in  a 
land  where  time  was  of  small  account,  and  where  it  was  not 
always  considered  as  equivalent  to  money. 

The  influence  of  climate  and  religious  observance  of 
putting  off  the  foot  covering  before  entering  the  house,  had 
its  part  in  the  development  of  the  beauties  and  long  life  of  Eas- 
tern rugs.  Where  the  harsh  impacts  of  sandals  or  shoes  would 
have  destroyed  undeveloped  charms,  the  soft  caress  of 
uncovered  feet  brought  forth  that  which  was  hidden,  and  toned 
to  perfection  the  color  harmonies.  Even  where  it  was  custom- 
ary to  wear  sandals  or  shoes  within  the  house  a fine  rug  was 
prized  and  admired  to  such  a degree  that  it  was  rarely,  if  ever, 
walked  upon  with  harsh  foot  covering.  In  the  Western  bustling 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 


world,  this  sentiment  could  not  find  a permanent  place,  but 
none  the  less  a fine  example  of  Eastern  art  is  appreciated  in 
many  other  ways. 

To  trace  faithfully  the  history  of  this  art  would  be  quite 
impossible,  for  the  most  painstaking  research  could  not 
distinguish  between  the  clear  light  of  truth  and  the  fogs  of 
legendary  lore  handed  down  from  generation  to  generation 
for  ages.  The  art  of  rug  making  probably  marks  the  birth  of 
a human  desire  to  perpetuate  and  put  into  tangible  form 
familiar  patterns  or  figures  woven  with  Nature’s  colors. 

In  the  rival  claims  of  the  Egyptians  and  the  Babylonians 
for  precedence  in  the  knowledge  of  the  art,  Pliny  decided  in 
favor  of  the  former,  for  he  held  that  the  goddess  Isis  was  the 
inventor  of  weaving,  and  for  that  reason  was  represented  with 
a shuttle  in  her  hand. 

The  Persians  probably  learned  from  the  Babylonians,  and 
so,  step  by  step,  over  a path  which  is  impossible  to  trace  with 
any  hope  of  learning  the  absolute  truth  concerning  the  history 
of  this  essentially  Oriental  art.  It  spread  out,  however,  until 
at  length  the  Moors  made  the  luxury  of  Oriental  weaving 
known  to  Southern  Spain,  where  they  also  established  a dis- 
tinct manufactory  and  a style  of  their  own.  Sometime  later 
the  argosies  of  Venice  brought  from  the  Orient  among  other 
treasures,  Persian  carpets,  which  were  thus  introduced  into 
Italy  and  Western  Europe.  The  small  rugs  were  used  as  cover- 
ings or  ornaments  for  tables  and  other  furniture,  and  the  larger 
for  wall  hangings  and  floor  coverings.  In  several  examples 
which  we  have  of  Italian  paintings  of  the  fifteenth  century 
and  also  paintings  of  the  Dutch  school,  Oriental  weavings  are 
clearly  recognized  and  employed  in  the  manner  described. 

Royal  palaces  or  cathedrals  were,  at  first,  the  only  places 
in  Europe  where  Oriental  rugs  could  be  found,  but  in  the 
cathedrals  especially.  The  Church  dignitaries,  quick  to  add 
to  the  wealth  and  splendor  of  the  establishment,  recognized  im- 
mediately the  value  and  utility  of  this  new  luxury,  and  soon 
possessed  the  most  highly  prized  of  all  the  rugs  that  came  from 
the  East.  The  beautiful  and  bold  designs  of  vaults  and  walls 
were  enhanced  by  these  rich  fabrics,  whether  laid  or  hung,  and 
if  the  circumstances  did  not  admit  of  a generous  display,  a 
sufficient  number  of  rugs  was  almost  always  secured  to  become 
part  of  the  approaches  of  the  high  altar. 

In  England  and  France,  about  the  sixteenth  century, 
Oriental  rugs  began  to  occupy  in  the  estimation  of  those  who 

Eight 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


Very  Old  Persian  Carpet 

Notable  for  the  many  points  it  possesses  in  common  with  the  Persian  rugs 
of  the  Sixth  and  Seventh  centuries 


had  an  artistic  temperament,  the  position  which,  with  the  lapse 
of  time,  has  grown  stronger. 

The  people  of  America  were  slow  to  fully  appreciate  the 
charms,  some  hidden,  some  apparent,  of  Eastern  rugs  and 
carpets;  but  having  once  learned  to  esteem  this  wonderful 
work  in  weaving,  all  classes  became  interested,  and,  according 
to  resources,  purchased  in  a manner  characteristic  of  the 

Nine 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 


American  people,  so  that  now  some  of  the  most  beautiful  rugs 
in  the  world,  very  choice  antiques,  have  found  a home  in  the 
United  States,  where  there  are  some  of  the  finest  collec- 
tions in  the  world. 

It  is  a difficult  matter 
to  determine  what  is 
and  what  is  not  an 
antique.  The  extra- 
ordinary demand  which 
has  developed  within  the 
past  few  years  for 
Oriental  rugs  has  had  a 
marked  effect  upon  the 
supply  of  antiques  from 
a number  of  rug-pro- 
ducing centres.  In  some 
it  is  absolutely  impos- 
sible to  secure  a real 
antique  rug.  Of  course, 
there  are  many  rugs  to 
be  had  that  have  been 
treated  with  lemon 
juice,  pumice  stone,  and 
in  the  numerous  other  ways  which  the  Orientals  employ  to 
make  an  antique,  but  they  are  soon  discovered  by  the  expert. 

To  be  classed  as  an  antique,  the  rug  should  certainly  be 
at  least  fifty  years  old. 

While  it  is  true  that  there  was  no  general  importation 
previous  to  the  Exposition  of  1876,  it  is  also  true  that  there 
were  many  rugs  in  the  country,  some  of  which  were  of  great 
value,  but  these  had  been  purchased  almost  entirely  by  tourists 
in  the  East,  or  had  been  brought  into  the  country  in  very 
small  lots  by  speculative  Orientals. 

The  Custom  House  statistics  prove  conclusively  the  greatly 
increased  demand  for  Oriental  rugs.  Prior  to  1892,  the 
importation  was  $300,000.  Now,  under  a tariff  of  40  per 
cent  ad  valorem,  and  ten  cents  per  square  foot,  the  im- 
portation has  grown  to  over  $3,500,000.  At  the  same  time 
the  domestic  rug  trade  has  increased  to  an  enormous  extent. 
Hence  we  can  readily  see  that  rugs  as  a floor  covering  are 
steadily  gaining  in  favor. 

It  would  be  tiresome  to  quote  from  Virgil,  Homer, 
Metellus,  Scipio,  Pliny,  Holy  Writ  and  other  sources,  to  prove 

Ten 


Persian  Rug  Merchant 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


the  ancient  and  honorable  position  which  this  art  occupied : 
one  or  two  quotations  will  suffice. 

An  ancient  Jewish  legend  claims  that  Naamah,  daughter 
of  Tubal  Cain,  was  the  inventor  of  weaving  threads  into  cloth. 

Sir  J.  Gardner  Wilkinson  mentions  a small  rug  11  x 9 
inches,  which  was  discovered  in  Thebes,  dating  from  666  to 
358  B.  C.  The  woolen  threads  were  fastened  to  linen  strings. 
The  ground  was  green  and  the  border  red,  white,  and  blue  in 
lines.  There  wras  a figure  of  a boy  in  the  centre  with  a goose 
above  him  (the  hieroglyphic  of  child). 

If  the  testimony  of  students  of  Mexican  antiquities  is  to 
be  depended  upon,  then  the  art  of  weaving  rugs  is  older  than 
the  Egyptian  civilization;  for  the  Mayas,  from  Yucatan, 
crossed  the  Pacific  when  Egypt  was  in  its  infancy  and  taught 
the  mysteries  of  weaving,  the  patterns  being  those  which  adorned 
the  temples  of  Yucatan.  There  is  no  doubt  that  the  stone 
carvings  which  wrere  made  wrhen  Egypt  was  yet  unborn  have 
been  reproduced  in  Oriental  rugs. 

Assrhur-boni-pal  (the  Sardanapalus  of  the  Greeks),  mighty 
monarch  of  Assyria,  is  represented  in  the  disguise  of  a female 
slave,  as  carding  the 
wool  from  which  the 
carpets  for  the  palace 
wrere  to  be  wrought. 

The  Expediency  of  us- 
ing a disguise  will  be 
recognized  when  it  is 
remembered  that  weav- 
ing in  the  East  was, 
and  is  still,  essentially  a 
female  occupation. 

Considering  the  many 
wars  which  this  king 
conducted  and  the 
great  development  of 
art  which,  under  his 
fostering  care,  was  ac- 
complished, this  story, 
like  many  another  of 
more  recent  date,  will 
stand  a discount.  There  have  been  writers  more  zealous  than 
truthful  in  every  age.  There  have  been  rulers  in  the  East, 
however,  who  did  not  consider  it  undignified  to  enter  into  the 

Eleven 


Expert  Weaver  and  Inspector  of  Patterns 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 


details  of  manufacturing  and  art  when  it  was  of  interest  to 
their  people.  Witness  the  great  Akbar,  Emperor  of  Hindostan, 
through  whose  far-seeing  wisdom  the  art  of  weaving  was  spread 
throughout  all  India. 

Notwithstanding  the  tincture  of  myth  which  characterizes 
many  of  the  ancient  stories,  the  very  fact  that  so  much  has 
been  written  is  an  indication  of  the  honorable  position  which 
these  products  of  united  brain  and  hand  occupied.  While  the 
history  is  meagre,  the  literature  on  the  subject  sufficiently 
proves  that,  notwithstanding  the  abundance  of  cheap  labor 
and  the  absolute  power  of  rulers,  the  value  of  some  productions 
was  very  great.  Pliny  mentions  a rug  exhibited  at  the  banquet 
of  Ptolemy  Philadelphus  which  cost  what  would  be  equivalent 
to  $115,000;  a very  comfortable  price  if  true,  even  in  our 
day,  and  the  rug  with  which  Cleopatra,  knowing  that  she  must 
disguise  herself  if  she  hoped  to  meet  the  conqueror,  enveloped 
her  superb  form  when  she  visited  Caesar,  and  became  in  one 
moment  conqueror  instead  of  conquered,  cost  no  small  sum. 

There  are  comparatively  very  few  examples  that  now  exist 
which  were  produced  prior  to  the  fifteenth  century.  Yet 
according  to  Sir  George  Birdwood  and  other  students,  the 
perfection  of  weaving  was  reached  in  the  sixteenth  century 
after  many  centuries  of  slow  growth,  and  the  value  of  the 
ancient  rugs  and  carpets  scattered  over  the  world  cannot  be 
estimated.  One  rug  in  a private  collection  at  Vienna,  made 
in  the  fourteenth  century  for  the  Kaaba  at  Mecca,  toward 
which  all  true  Mohammedans  turn  at  prayers,  is  valued  beyond 
a price  which  could  be  gauged  by  dollars. 

An  expert,  in  giving  his  experience,  stated  that  the  great 
carpet  in  the  Chehel  Sutoon,  at  Ispahan  in  Persia,  the  Palace 
of  the  Forty  Pillars  of  Shah  Abbas  the  Great,  was  the  only 
essentially  Persian  type  of  carpet  from  the  sixteenth  century 
which  he  had  found  in  Persia.  In  Spain,  he  had  found  over 
sixty,  and  in  India,  at  Jeppore,  Aurungabad  and  Bijapur, 
between  thirty  and  forty,  several  of  which  bore  labels  stating 
that  they  were  made  in  India,  and  showing  that  the  importa- 
tion of  weavers  was  much  easier  than  the  transportation  of 
goods,  which,  even  to-day,  is  a most  difficult  problem  in  some 
sections. 

It  is  not  expedient  here  to  take  up  the  subject  of  rare 
examples  of  Oriental  weaving,  which  are  now  preserved  in 
private  collections  and  in  such  public  collections  as  those  of 
the  South  Kensington  Museum,  the  Handels  Museum,  and  other 

Twelve 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


Antique  Tabriz 

treasure  storehouses.  The  errors  of  classification,  the  absence 
of  a uniform  nomenclature,  and  the  apparent  impossibility  of 
adding  more  to  our  knowledge  concerning  ancient  carpet  weav- 
ing, makes  the  subject  one  from  which  little  profit  might  be 
gained,  but  from  which  much  controversy  would  ensue. 
Thirteen 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 


The  exhibition  of  Oriental  carpets  held  in  the  Imperial 
Royal  Commercial  Museum  in  1891,  and  the  monographs  from 
the  pens  of  the  greatest  experts  in  the  world,  together  with 
the  technical  research  of  Dr.  Riegel,  exhausted  the  subject  up 
to  that  time,  and  did,  after  all,  add  but  little  to  the  knowledge 
already  the  property  of  those  who  were  interested  in  the  subject. 

The  method  of  weaving  is  to-day  almost  identically  the 
same  as  it  was  thousands  of  years  ago,  except  in  some  districts 
where  modern  appliances  have  to  some  extent  been  introduced, 
such  as  the  German  loom  with  its  ability  to  keep  straight 
edges  and  improve  in  some  ways  upon  the  primitive  methods. 

Between  the  various  nations,  and  tribes  of  each  nation,  the 
method  of  weaving  differs  in  some  non-essential  features, 
except  where  the  horizontal  loom  is  employed  as  with  some 
nomadic  tribes,  but  in  the  main,  the  loom  is  set  up  by  placing 
two  upright,  slightly  inclined  poles,  to  which  are  attached 
horizontal  bars  at  the  top  and  at  the  bottom,  the  size  of  the 
loom  depending  in  some  cases  upon  the  size  of  the  carpet  to 
be  made. 

From  the  top  bar  a number  of  woolen  strands  are  wound, 
the  ends  being  securely  fastened  to  the  lower  bar,  which 
sometimes  is  the  roller  around  which  is  wound  the  completed 
portions  of  the  carpet  as  the  weaving  goes  on.  When  the 
loom  has  all  the  strands  arranged,  it  looks  very  similar  to  the 
strings  of  a harp.  These  strands  are  kept  on  a tension  by 
means  of  levers  fixed  to  the  upper  horizontal  bar,  and  the 
number  of  strands  employed  depends  upon  the  grade  of  rug 
to  be  produced. 

A rug  having  7 strands  to  the  inch  would  require  for  a 
10-foot  rug  840  strands.  If  a quality  twice  as  fine  as  the 
foregoing  were  desired,  14  strands  to  the  inch  would  be  made, 
or  1,680  strands  in  all.  The  number  of  strands,  however,  is 
by  no  means  the  only  test  of  quality,  for  the  wool  in  the 
7-strand  may  be  finer,  the  design  better,  and  the  colors  more 
perfect.  A score  of  circumstances  may  combine  to  make  the 
7-strand  rug  more  valuable  than  the  14-strand. 

From  the  top  of  the  frame  the  balls  of  colored  wool  lie 
within  easy  reach  of  the  skillful  workers,  who,  taking  the  wool, 
pass  it  between  two  strands,  one  over  and  one  under,  the  knot 
being  then  tied  firmly  and  the  ends  cut  with  a sharp  knife. 
When  two  full  rows  have  been  made,  they  are  clipped  as 
evenly  as  possible,  the  final  results  forming  a plush  pile,  the 
final  shearing  off  being  done  when  the  rug  is  completed. 

Fourteen 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


Fifteen 


Moussul  Rug 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 

The  tying  of  the  knot  is  one  of  the  processes  which 
requires  extreme  dexterity  and  care,  for  upon  this  depends  the 
life  of  the  rug,  and  one  of  the  chief  qualifications  of  an  expert 
rug  maker  is  the  ability  to  tie  knots  securely  and  rapidly, 
and  at  the  same  time  select  the  proper  shades  and  combinations. 

The  space  usually  allowed  a weaver  under  one  method 
is  from  two  to  three  feet.  When  the  last  line  has  been  tied 
the  rug  is  cut  down  and  taken  from  the  roller  for  the  final 
shearing,  so  that  no  irregularities  of  surface  may  be  found. 

The  workers  sit  cross-legged,  either  on  the  floor  or  on 
a raised  frame,  so  that  when  the  knot  is  beaten  down  to  its 
proper  position  on  the  underlying  weft  it  will  be  on  a level 
with  the  knees;  this  arrangement  permits  of  sufficient  force 
being  used  to  produce  good  results. 

Throughout  Persia  the  loom  is  practically  the  same  prim- 
itive arrangement,  but  the  method  of  producing  the  rug  is 
different;  instead  of  moving  down  the  part  that  is  completed, 
and  so  continuing,  the  weavers  move  upward  as  the  work 
progresses.  Ladders  are  placed  opposite  the  two  upright  poles, 
and  on  the  rungs  of  these  are  planks  for  the  weavers  to  sit 
upon ; as  the  work  progresses,  the  weaver  moves  his  seat 
upward,  the  limit  in  upward  progress  being  the  roof. 


The  Primitive  Loom 


Sixteen 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


If  the  carpet  is  to  be  a large  one,  it  becomes  necessary, 
after  the  roof  has  been  reached,  to  begin  at  the  bottom  again. 
The  rug,  therefore,  is  taken  down  and  sewed  on  to  the  floor 
stretcher,  the  strands  are  adjusted  and  the  work  proceeds.  This 
practice  accounts  for  the  dirt  line  often  seen  on  the  back  of 
large  carpets  and  also  for  the  mysterious  threads  which  have 
so  often  puzzled  the  inexperienced  buyers. 

In  some  sections,  where  particular  care  is  taken,  a roller 
is  used,  around  which  the  completed  carpet  is  wound  and 
covered  up. 

The  weavers  are  generally  divided  into  two  classes ; those 
who  have  permanent  homes  and  those  who  are  nomads.  The 
looms  of  the  former  are  almost  always  upright;  in  the  winter 
they  are  set  up  in  the  house,  and  in  the  summer  they  are 
moved  to  sheds  or  courtyards  connected  therewith.  The 
nomadic  tribes  carry  their  looms  along  with  them  in  their 
wanderings,  and  for  the  most  part  weave  in  the  summer  and 
winter  camps  on  horizontal  looms  lying  a short  distance  above 
the  ground.  This  peculiar  loom  is  universal  among  the  nomads, 
except  in  the  case  of  Luristan  and  a few  other  sections. 

The  Luristan  weavers,  who  are  men  as  well  as  women, 
make  a coarse  carpet,  crude  in  color  and  design,  but  they  also 
make  on  their  primitive  looms  a pileless  carpet  called  “Ghileem,” 
which  is  of  very  fair  quality. 

To  go  deeply  into  the  characteristics  of  the  many  tribes 
and  sections,  giving  in  detail  the  peculiarities  of  patterns  and 
color,  material  and  workmanship,  would  prove  tedious  to  any 
one  but  a connoisseur,  and  would  require  no  small  volume. 

The  weavers,  as  a rule,  are  very  poorly  paid;  it  is,  there- 
fore, fortunate  for  them  that  their  wants  are  not  many,  and 
that  with  patience  their  souls  are  possessed,  for  when  one 
considers  that  in  a fine  Persian  prayer  rug  there  are  sometimes 
40,000  knots  or  more  to  the  square  foot,  and  that  the  price 
paid  per  week  would  scarcely  satisfy  our  cheapest  labor  for 
a day,  patience  is  no  less  needed  than  skill. 

A fair  average  of  the  wages  might  be  based  upon  those 
which  are  paid  in  the  Turkish  districts  of  Koula,  Oushak, 
Ghiordes  and  Demiodgi-Akhissar,  where  they  get  from  15  to 
20  piastres,  which  is  about  79  cents  to  $1.58  per  week,  hardly 
sufficient  to  keep  up  a large  establishment  in  the  West.  The 
hired  weavers  receive  considerably  less.  The  hired  weavers  are 
employed  by  those  who  have  the  wherewithal  to  pay  for  help; 
they  are  the  plutocrats  of  the  rug  industry. 

Seventeen 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 


There  is  small  chance  of  the  Western  world  attempting 
to  compete  with  the  Eastern  in  originality  and  variety  of  designs, 
for  aside  from  the  element  of  cost,  the  nervous  strain  which 
would  be  the  result  of  working  steadily  for  a year,  or  perhaps 
five  years,  on  one  carpet,  would  kill  Western  workers,  and  if, 
as  some  claim,  the  Oriental  is  devoid  of  nerves  as  understood 
by  the  Occidental,  he  should  praise  Allah  night  and  day  that 
it  is  so.  There  is  no  hope  that  machinery  will  take  the  place 
of  this  labor,  for  the  individuality  would  be  lost  and  the 
marvelous  combinations  could  never  be  followed. 

The  weaving  is  chiefly  done  by  the  women  and  girls ; there 
are,  however,  districts  where  the  men  and  boys  also  become 
bread  earners,  for  the  demand  for  rugs  has  grown  so  enorm- 
ously that  there  are  not  enough  women  to  keep  the  looms  busy. 
Usually  the  children  at  six  or  seven  years  of  age  begin,  under 
the  direction  of  the  working  mothers,  to  learn  the  mysteries  of 
the  loom,  and  after  two  years  of  learning,  they  earn  small 
wages,  their  work  beginning  at  sunrise.  The  men  and  boys 
frequently  spend  their  time  either  in  idleness  or  in  seeking 
pleasure,  or  else  occupy  that  relative  position  which  is  known 
in  the  Western  dramatic  world  as  the  “thinking  cast.”  This 
does  not  call  for  any  manual  effort,  and  usually  the  great 
thinking  part  is  directed  to  a concentration  of  all  the  passing 
pleasures  possible  in  the  day. 

This  condition,  however,  with  the  increased  demand  for 
the  goods,  has  brought  about  a change,  and  there  is  something 
like  a Western  spirit  very  clearly  seen  in  parts  of  the  Orient. 

The  looms  are  generally  owned  by  the  men,  and  the 
owner’s  wives  and  children  work  early  and  late;  sometimes 
weavers  are  hired.  The  hired  weavers  are  scarce,  because  it 
is  much  more  profitable  to  marry  a good  weaver  than  to  hire 
her,  for  then  she  cannot  leave  the  loom  owner  or  go  on  a 
“strike.” 

A most  marked  and  evil  result  has  followed  the  employ- 
ment of  children  at  such  tender  ages  as  six  and  seven.  It  is 
true  that  they  develop  skill,  but  it  is  at  the  cost  of  the  physical 
degeneracy  of  the  race,  and  this  fact  has  been  commented  upon 
by  statesmen  and  scientists,  who  have  made  this  subject  a study. 

The  designing  for  Oriental  rugs  has  ever  been  a study  for 
the  thoughtful.  The  infinite  variety  of  patterns,  combined 
with  the  illimitable  chromatic  scale,  has  been  a source  of  ever 
increasing  delight,  and  yet,  with  a deeper  knowledge  of  the 

Eighteen 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


subject,  the  thought,  is  irresistibly  brought  to  mind  that  the 
seemingly  infinite  variety  of  design  is  in  reality,  only  the  slow 
development  of  original  designs,  lost  many  centuries  ago,  and 
if  the  theory  be  true  that  the  Mayas  of  Mexico  taught  the 
Egyptians  how  to  weave  the  patterns  which  were  faithful 
copies  of  the  stone  carvings  on  their  temples  in  Yucatan,  and 
Nineteen 


Antique  Shiraz 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 


there  is  evidence  to  substantiate  the  statement,  then  the  history 
of  rug  weaving  goes  back  almost  to  the  beginning  of  time. 

The  original  forms  and  colorings,  full  of  significance  to 
those  initiated,  and  regarded  with  awe  and  surrounded  with 
superstition,  were  almost  always  strictly  followed,  and  the  chief 
aim  of  the  weaver  was  to  perfect  the  forms,  make  more  delicate 
and  numerous  the  shadings,  and  in  every  way  improve  upon  his 
predecessor’s  work  without  digressing  from  the  original  pattern 
to  any  extent.  There  were,  of  course,  changes  in  patterns 
differing  from  the  original  in  some  particulars,  but  these 
changes  were  due  to  the  individuality  of  the  weaver,  and  his 
family,  or  to  the  effect  of  surroundings,  frequent  in  a migra- 
tory life. 

These  changes,  all  made  with  a view  to  improvement,  show, 
after  a critical  study,  that  the  original  design  gave  the  inspir- 
ation to  the  weaver.  This  theory  is  the  only  one  which  would 
explain  the  perfection  of  the  ancient  rugs  which  are  now  in 
existence ; they  could  only  have  been  produced  after  ages  of 
apprenticeship.  The  same  patterns  have  been  followed  for 
generations  by  the  same  families  and  tribes,  with  only  here  or 
there  a slight  change  due  to  the  particular  fancy  of  an 
individual,  but  the  original  design  was  always,  sooner  or  later, 
resumed. 

The  most  ancient  designs  are  purely  geometric,  which  in 
time  advanced  to  the  floral,  copying,  it  is  thought,  the  mosaics 
of  Assyrian  pavements  and  the  forms  of  gardens  of  Persepolis 
and  Babylon.  Sir  W.  Morris,  in  his  work  published  in  London, 
1884,  gives  three  styles  of  designs.  First — Pure  flowing,  like 
the  early  stucco  mural  reliefs  of  Cairo.  Second — A similar 
style  blended  with  animal  forms.  Third — Purely  floral,  flow- 
ing in  lines  and  fantastic  in  pattern.  This  briefly  covers  the 
main  styles  of  designs,  without  going  into  the  significance  of 
the  various  animals  and  patterns  in  the  respective  rug  making 
countries. 

The  symbolical  or  mythological  patterns,  in  which  the 
Lion  stood  for  the  sun,  Phoenix  for  day,  and  the  Dragon  for 
night,  were  largely  employed  until  the  ninth  century,  when 
Mohammed  forbade  the  use  of  any  animals,  with  the  exception 
of  the  dog  and  bird,  which  have  a significance  in  the  faith. 
All  followers  of  the  Prophet,  however,  did  not  observe  this  law. 
The  Shiah  sect  of  Moslems,  who  number  about  15,000,000,  of 
which  8,000,000  are  Persians,  have  employed  animal  forms 
constantly. 


Twenty 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


The  influence  of  surroundings  has,  undoubtedly,  a most 
marked  effect  upon  the  design  at  any  period. 

When  Henry  IV.  of  France  invited  Persian  weavers  to 
Beauvais,  the  individuality  of  the  weavers  was  lost,  and  with 
improved  looms  they  forgot  their  skill.  An  investigation  as 
to  the  cause  of  the  depreciation  in  the  designs  of  certain 
carpets  from  Khorassan  which  were  popular  with  Persian 
officials  led  to  the  belief  that  the  apparent  lack  of  taste  among 
the  upper  classes  in  modern  Persia  was  due,  in  no  small  part, 
to  the  ugly  semi-European  official  dress.  Peculiar  black  coats 
and  more  peculiar  brimless  stove-pipe  hats  were  entirely  out 
of  harmony  with  ancient  or  medieval  Persian  art,  and  a 
demoralization  among  the  weavers  followed.  Happily,  the 
importance  of  purity  in  design  and  coloring  is  now  generally 
understood,  and  through  the  earnest  efforts  of  some  of  the  great 
importers  of  America,  England  and  France  there  will  be  less 
innovation  and  a more  faithful  following  of  the  ancient  styles 
which  were  perfected  only  after  centuries  of  thought  and  work. 
Yet  the  demand  for  Eastern  made  rugs  with  the  design  purely 
Occidental  is  rapidly  growing.  In  many  cases  these  designs 
are  furnished  by  the  Western  importer,  but  in  some  cases  the 
weaver  furnishes  them  himself.  In  any  event,  they  are  guarded 
with  the  most  jealous  care  to  prevent  them  being  copied  by 
some  rival. 

Skill  in  weaving  figures  largely  in  the  social  life.  An 
expert  weaver  can  always  find  a husband.  (Judging  from 
our  Western  standpoint,  she  would  be  better  without  one.) 
Among  the  Turkomen  a young  girl  on  her  first  marriage  costs 
her  husband  100  tomans,  a variable  money  value,  equal  on  an 
average  to  about  $2.00.  If  she  becomes  a widow  and  marries 
again,  her  second  husband  pays  double  for  the  privilege  of 
marrying  her,  and  the  advance  is  100  tomans  each  time  up 
to  the  tenth  marriage.  It  is  not  very  frequently  that  the  limit 
of  ten  is  reached,  even  with  all  the  vicissitudes  of  a nomad 
life,  but  provision  is  made  for  contingencies.  The  bride’s 
father  receives  the  price,  and  in  the  event  of  his  being  dead, 
her  brother;  then  her  uncle,  then  the  uncle’s  son,  or  her  nearest 
paternal  relatives.  The  reason  for  the  advancing  scale  is  that 
it  is  presumed  that  her  skill  as  a weaver  and  her  experience 
as  a housewife  increases  with  her  growth  in  years,  up  to  the  tenth 
marriage.  If  this  theory  is  correct,  why  stop  at  the  tenth? 
She  might  reach  perfection.  There  is  no  illustration  which 
could  more  clearly  show  the  position  which  some  of  the  women 
Twenty-one 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 


of  the  East  occupy  than  this  custom  among  the  tribes  of  the 
Turkoman. 


Antique  Shirvan 


The  wool  of  sheep  and  goats,  among  which  the  Angora 
goat  forms  no  inconsiderable  part,  is  the  chief  material  from 
which  Oriental  rugs  are  made,  although  other  materials  are 

Tiventy-two 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


also  employed.  Camel’s  hair  wool,  with  silk,  is  used  in  a com- 
paratively small  quantity,  and  also  “Kurk,”  which  combines  the 
softness  of  silk  with  a stability  that  is  entirely  its  own.  It 
is  exceedingly  rare ; it  comes  from  Kurdistan,  the  source  of 
the  best  carpets  and  rugs  of  Persia.  “Kurk”  is  the  winter 
combings  of  the  live  sheep  and  that  soft  wool  lying  at  the 
root  of  the  ordinary  wool.  Rugs  woven  from  this  material 
are  very  rare,  and  they  differ  from  the  ordinary  Kurdistan 
carpets  in  that  they  are  so  soft  and  delightful  from  the 
beginning,  whilst  the  ordinary  Kurdistan  weave  is  remarkably 
hard  at  first,  but  grows  marvelously  soft  and  beautiful  with 
time. 

The  extravagance  of  luxury  introduced  silk  as  a material 
for  rugs  at  a very  early  age.  And  yet,  notwithstanding  the 
qualities  which  this  queen  of  materials  possessed,  it  was  not 
satisfactory  in  comparison  with  the  camel’s  hair  or  fine  wool. 
The  beautiful  lustre  was  lost  to  a large  degree  when  made 
into  a pile  carpet,  for  the  gloss  was  seen  at  best  on  the  side, 
and  not  on  the  end ; moreover,  in  addition  to  the  greater 
expense,  there  was  less  durability.  Silver  and  gold  threads  were 
frequently  woven  into  carpets.  The  troubadours  carried  such 
carpets  and  sat  upon  them  while  singing  or  relating  more  or 
less  marvelous  stories.  (Our  modern  troubadours  appear  to 
be  satisfied  without  the  carpets,  provided  the  police  do  not  move 
them  on.)  These  gold  and  silver  embroidered  carpets  were 
also  carried  on  poles  as  a canopy  over  the  Host,  and  over 
distinguished  personages  in  procession,  and  over  the  tombs  of 
notable  persons. 

The  natural  conservatism  and  the  scarcity  of  money  were 
important  elements  in  preserving  the  purity  and  the  lasting 
qualities  of  Oriental  colors.  Until  recent  times  no  mineral  dyes 
were  used.  All  the  multitude  of  shades  were  the  result  of 
home-made  dyes,  produced  from  vegetable  matter,  the  result 
being  a lustre  and  gloss  not  to  be  equalled. 

The  secrets  of  the  article  used  and  of  their  manipulation 
were  jealously  guarded  from  alien  tribes  and  foreigners,  and 
even  to-day  it  is  a subject  which  to  investigate  presents  in 
some  sections  insurmountable  barriers,  for  the  native  is  afraid 
that  the  means  of  livelihood  will  be  taken  from  him  if  he 
reveals  to  the  encroaching  and  aggressive  foreigner  any  of  the 
secrets  which  have  been  handed  down  from  generation  to 
generation.  It  is  no  doubt  true  that  the  water  in  which  the  wool 
is  washed  and  boiled  exerts  an  influence  on  the  tone  and 
Twenty-three 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 


development  of  the  color  which  is  not  understood  by  anyone, 
native  or  alien,  and  the  same  is  true  of  the  influence  of  sun- 
light. The  facts  and  results  are  recognized,  but  as  yet  there 
is  no  explanation.  One  fact  is  admitted:  no  dye  can  be  matched 
exactly,  even  when  the  same  process  is  followed  absolutely,  and 
therefore  care  is  taken  to  have  a sufficient  amount  of  yarn  dyed 
to  finish  a given  run  or  number  of  rugs  with  the  same  coloring ; 
the  innumerable  shadings  which  one  sees  in  rugs  from  some 
sections  is  due  to  the  fact  that  while  dyeing,  the  dyer  smokes, 

and  the  immersion  of  the  yam  in  the  pail  is  longer  or  shorter 

as  the  puffs  on  the  cigarette  are  longer  or  shorter. 

In  old  examples  of  rugs,  a very  small  amount  of  black 

was  employed  in  the  design.  This  was  due  to  its  dull  and 

depressive  tone,  and  to"  the  fact  that  no  vegetable  coloring 
was  known  that  would  produce  a good  black  that  would  retain 
its  color.  When  black  formed  a part  of  the  pattern,  the 
material  was  usually  the  fleece  of  black  sheep,  which  were  rare. 
Nothing  else  took  the  place,  and  while  we  have  black  sheep  in 
our  own  Western  world,  as  they  had  in  the  East,  it  appears 
that  they  were  quite  as  difficult  to  secure. 

Each  nation  used,  to  a large  extent,  its  favorite  color: 
red  for  the  Turk;  for  the  Persian,  green;  blue  for  Greek  and 
Armenian;  but  all  nations  and  tribes  used  indigo  blue,  yellow, 
orange,  turquoise,  ruby,  red,  crimson  and  green,  except  in 
the  case  of  the  Turk,  who  regarded  green  as  a holy  color,  not 
to  be  profaned  by  believer’s  or  unbeliever’s  feet. 

Color  has  always  held  a prominent  place  in  the  East, 
and  is  of  great  significance.  Each  country,  however,  does 
not  give  the  same  meaning  to  colors  alike,  but  white  was 
Purity;  black,  Evil;  blue,  Truth,  Virtue  and  Sincerity;  also 
symbol  of  zeal  for  the  faith;  yellow,  in  China,  Royalty.  A 
good-size  book  might  be  written  on  this  interesting  subject. 

The  water  in  which  the  wool  is  washed  has  so  definite 
an  influence  on  the  beauty  and  life  of  the  rug  that  certain 
streams  have,  for  generations,  held  a reputation  reaching  over 
a wide  territory. 

The  water  must  be  soft,  for  hard  water  would  make 
necessary  the  use  of  potash,  and  that  has  a tendency  to  cut 
the  fine  hair  or  wool.  The  washing  is  scarcely  less  important 
in  the  eyes  of  the  weaver  than  is  the  art  of  the  dyer.  It  is 
a wonderfully  tedious  operation,  varying  in  different  localities 
very  greatly,  one  section  condemning  the  methods  employed 
in  another,  but  after  generation  upon  generation  has  worked 

Twenty-four 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


Twenty-five 


Symbolic  Antique  Tabriz 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 


to  produce  the  best  results,  it  is  only  reasonable  to  assume 
that  each  section  knows  what  is  best  suited  for  its  particular 
case.  Difference  in  climate  and  wool  would  probably  account 
for  difference  in  treatment. 

May  is  the  shearing  time,  and  these  skillful  workers 
quickly  assort  the  poor  from  the  good  wool,  after  which  it  is 
washed  in  running  water  many  times,  and  is  not  allowed  to 
dry  between  the  washings.  It  is  then  placed  in  a stone  vessel 
and  mixed  with  a flour  starch ; then  with  a heavy  instrument, 
it  is  thoroughly  pounded,  after  which  it  receives  many  other 
washings  to  take  out  the  starch.  It  is  then  spread  out  to 
dry,  provided  the  sun  and  wind  are  in  proper  condition.  It 
must  dry  evenly,  and  the  weaver  considers  this  a very  important 
matter,  and  will  sometiJnes  wait  for  days  until  the  conditions 
are  right. 

When  the  wool  has  been  thoroughly  cleaned  of  dirt  and 
animal  fat,  there  is  a depreciation  of  about  60  per  cent. 

When  the  Eastern  weaver,  wishing  to  please  his  Western 
customer;  tried  to  improve  upon  what  had  only  been  made 
perfect  by  ages  of  constant  application,  animal  coloring  and 
the  coal-tar  colors  entered  then  into  competition  with  the 
home  product.  Cochineal  was  first  employed,  and  later  the 
coal-tar  product.  While  the  object  was  worthy,  and  the  theory 
that  duller  skies  needed  different  colors  from  those  of  the  East, 
the  result  was  at  first  disastrous ; so  serious  became  the 
demoralization  in  the  rug  industry,  that  the  late  Shah,  upon 
his  return  to  Persia,  after  his  travels  in  Europe,  and  after 
having  had  the  situation  explained  to  him  by  London 
merchants,  ordered  that  all  rugs  and  carpets  manufactured  in 
his  land  should  conform  in  pattern  and  colors  to  the  ancient 
system,  and  this  action  no  doubt  did  much  to  preserve  an 
industry  which  was  fast  going  to  ruin. 

However,  with  the  improvement  of  Western  dyes  and  the 
scientific  application  of  the  same,  coal-tar  and  the  improved 
chemical  dyes  soon  occupied  a position  from  which  they  will 
never  be  moved.  It  is  claimed  the  improved  chemical  dyes, 
which  are  “fast,”  are  affected  no  more  by  sunlight  or  air  than 
the  best  of  the  vegetable  dyes,  and  the  coal-tar  tints  are 
infinitely  more  numerous,  but  this  claim  is  stoutly  objected 
to  by  those  who  believe  in  the  older  method  of  dyeing. 

The  change  will  surely  come,  but  like  all  changes  in  the 
East,  it  will  be  gradual,  especially  as  applied  to  Oriental  rugs, 
but  prejudice  will  finally  be  subdued  because  of  the  pecuniary 

Twenty-six 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


Antique  Ghiordes 


Twenty-seven 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 


advantages  and  the  easier  methods  of  preparation.  Before  the 
advent  of  coal-tar  colors,  alazarin  sold  for  $20  per  cwt.  It 
now  sells  for  about  $3.  In  1860,  analine  blue  was  put  upon 
the  market.  In  less  than  a year  it  took  ten  factories  to  supply 
the  demand. 

At  the  great  fairs  which  are  held  once  a year  at  Baluk- 
Hissar  in  May,  at  Yaprakli  in  August,  and  at  other  places, 
there  are  gathered  every  nation,  kindred  and  tribe,  no  distance 
being  too  great  to  travel  for  the  opportunity  of  barter.  Here, 
for  weeks,  a scene  of  intense  activity  prevails.  It  is  at  these 
chief  fairs  that  the  great  rug  collections  are  gathered  together, 
and  they  come  from  every  part  of  the  East,  each  with  its 
individual  history.  Was  the  rug  honestly  purchased  at  one  of 
the  smaller  fairs  which'  are  held  weekly  in  many  districts,  was 
it  a clean  purchase,  or  did  the  life  of  the  weaver  go  out  when 
he  tried  to  protect  his  property  against  the  assaults  of  the 
man  who  now  offers  it  for  barter?  Did  it  come  from  the 
land  of  everlasting  snow,  from  the  high  mountains  that  over- 
look the  world,  or  was  it  created  in  some  sunny,  bird-loving 
spot  in  Persia  or  India?  Has  it  a history?  Part  of  the  story 
will  be  known  when  the  rug  is  examined,  for  then  one  may 
say  whether  it  came  from  the  land  of  snow  or  sunshine;  but 
the  intimate  history  concerning  its  birth  and  development  will 
ever  remain  a mystery. 

The  trading  at  these  fairs  is  almost  altogether  by  barter. 
The  plain  and  printed  cloths  from  the  United  States  and 
Europe,  together  with  the  thousand  and  one  other  articles  from 
the  Occident  which  are  dear  to  the  heart  of  the  Oriental,  are 
exchanged  for  goods  which  interest  the  Western  buyer,  and 
Oriental  goods  are  exchanged  for  other  Oriental  goods,  and  so 
the  trading  goes  on.  Very  little  money  is  passed  in  the  transac- 
tions, and  few  checks.  The  obligations  agreed  upon  are  as 
a general  rule  faithfully  carried  out,  and  the  transactions  are 
considered  sacred  by  simple  word  of  mouth.  Nevertheless,  the 
followers  of  the  Prophet  are  also  close  followers  after  the 
profits  every  moment  of  the  day  and  never  fall  asleep. 

These  great  fairs  afford  an  opportunity  to  the  student 
of  ethnology  which  could  be  experienced  under  no  other 
conditions.  The  people  from  Kurdistan,  in  Western  Asia, 
concerning  whom  so  little  is  known,  come  from  their  mountain 
homes,  bringing  their  bloodthirsty  natures  subdued,  but  their 
pride  as  pronounced  as  ever.  After  the  fair  the  Kurd  will 
go  back  to  his  mountains,  some  peaks  of  which  are  13,000 

Twenty-eight 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


Antique  Kermanshah 


Twenty-nine 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 


feet  above  sea  level.  There  he  will  watch  with  jealous  eye 
every  mountain  pass  leading  to  his  fastness,  and  woe  to  him 
who  enters  unless  protected.  The  Kurd  may  be  a subject  of 
Tuikey  or  Persia  (for  the  country  is  divided  between  the  two 
nations),  but  no  one  would  suspect  him  of  being  the  subject 
of  any  one.  He  raises  the  magnificent  horses  employed  by 
the  Turkish  cavalry.  He  makes  rugs,  and  his  pride  is  some- 
what justified,  for  he  can  trace  his  pedigree  back  to  the  Medes 
and  Chaldeans,  with  hundreds  of  generations  unbroken. 

Mongols  and  Tartars  from  Central  Asia  compete  for  trade. 
Afghans  and  Beluches,  East  Indians,  Tekkes  from  Merv,  with 
the  braided  hair  down  each  side  of  the  face,  Syrians,  Arabs, 
Anatolians,  Greeks,  Jews  from  all  quarters,  Armenians,  and 
even  from  far-away  China  caravans  arrive.  When  the  business 
of  the  day  is  over  the  busy  scenes  change,  and  everything  is 
laid  aside,  and  pleasure  predominates.  Wizards  perform  in 
a manner  never  seen  outside  Asia.  The  Dervishes  sing  and 
improvise,  as  was  the  custom  centuries  ago  in  Europe.  These 
festivities  are  kept  up  at  the  highest  pitch  every  night  for 
weeks,  and  the  next  fair  is  looked  forward  to  with  eager 
anticipation.  There  may  be  more  profit  and  greater  entertain- 
ment than  at  the  one  just  ended. 

When  the  fair  is  over,  the  caravans  are  arranged,  and, 
when  ready,  depart,  leaving,  in  many  cases,  a wild  waste  where 
the  fair  was  held,  but  carrying,  together  with  other  articles, 
the  best  carpets  and  rugs  from  the  section;  and,  in  course  of 
time,  these  products  of  the  Orient  are  offered  to  the  buyer 
from  the  Occident. 

It  would  be  impossible  to  go  into  the  story  of  the  Head 
Merchant  of  a town,  and  his  absolute  power.  The  most  concise 
and  thorough  statement  on  this  subject  is  given  in  the  work 
of  John  Kimberly  Mumford,  entitled  “Oriental  Rugs,”  published 
by  the  Scribner’s  of  New  York. 

This  work,  together  with  that  of  Rosa  Belle  Holt — 
“Rugs : Oriental  and  Occidental,  Antique  and  Modern,”  pub- 
lished by  McClurg  & Co.,  Chicago — furnish  a vast  amount 
of  information  on  this  interesting  subject,  making  it  unneces- 
sary to  consult  the  rare  works  to  be  found  in  only  a few  great 
libraries. 

A very  large  proportion  of  the  caravans  which  carry  rugs 
and  carpets  are  sent  to  Constantinople,  for  this  is  the  central 
point  to  which  the  large  dealers  send  their  stocks. 

Thirty 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


Shirvan 

In  this  great  market  the  result  of  months,  and  sometimes 
years,  of  careful  buying  is  exhibited  in  khans  or  trading 
bazaars.  When  the  rugs  arrive  they  are  thoroughly  impreg- 
nated with  the  dust  of  many  lands.  So  great  a cloud  does 
this  raise  at  times  when  the  selling  is  going  on  that  sometimes 

Thirty-one 


rugs  and  carpets 


&M 


r tU 

'*  **&!«)*' 


g%€ 


smixmynsrn: ssgrogn^mMiVfwrrrr-tg 


Antique  Meles 


Thirty-two 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


sponges  or  dampened  handkerchiefs  are  kept  over  mouth  and 
nostrils.  No  attempt  is  made  at  cleaning  until  they  reach 
the  Occident. 

The  method  of  transporting  rugs  is  primitive  to  a degree, 
and  the  expense  proportionally  great.  Centuries  ago  the 
same  means  were  employed  as  at  the  present  time,  and  the 
same  difficulties  experienced,  and  this  frequently  led  to  the 
moving  of  large  families  to  distant  countries,  for  it  was  less 
costly  to  move  the  weavers  than  to  pay  for  transportation, 
and  indeed,  in  the  case  of  large  carpets,  there  was  no  means 
of  moving  them  long  distances,  even  with  the  aid  of  elephants. 
Thus  it  was  that  in  parts  of  the  East  the  art  of  weaving 
carpets  was  introduced. 

Some  few  buyers  advance  into  the  Caucasus  and  into  Persia 
in  search  of  rare  weaves,  but  this  movement  is  attended  with 
danger,  even  though  the  buyer  is  familiar  with  the  numerous 
tribes  and  has  a thorough  knowledge  of  their  peculiarities, 
for  in  some  sections  the  natives  do  not  take  kindly  to 
strangers. 

It  was  Bret  Harte  who  pointed  out  with  no  uncertain 
voice  that  the  heathen  Chinese  had  a smile  which  was  childlike 
and  bland,  and  yet:  “That  for  ways  that  are  dark  and  for 
tricks  that  are  vain  the  heathen  Chinee  is  peculiar.”  If  the 
great  American  poet  had  been  versed  in  Oriental  lore  or  had 
come  in  contact  with  Oriental  rug  makers  and  brokers,  he 
would,  without  doubt,  have  given  the  palm  for  ways  and  tricks 
to  the  Armenian  or  Persian. 

The  sharp  Western  buyer,  therefore,  never  attempts  to 
hurry  the  seller  or  show  any  haste  himself.  He  may  chafe 
and  gall,  but  his  outward  appearance  indicates  that  he  is 
extremely  happy  and  contented.  He  knows  that  the  price 
asked  is  from  six  to  ten  times  more  than  will  undoubtedly  be 
accepted,  but  he  never  hints  at  such  a fact,  he  gently  intimates 
it  is  plainly  evident  that  the  rug  merchant  is  doing  himself 
a business  injury  in  naming  so  low  a price,  and  while  he  looks 
with  favor  upon  the  collection  or  bale  of  rugs  and  would 
purchase  immediately,  his  position  at  present  is  so  unfortunate 
that  he  blushes  to  even  think  of  the  price  which  he  could 
afford  to  pay,  and,  therefore,  to  preserve  the  friendship  which 
he  prizes  so  highly,  will  make  no  offer.  Each  is  perfectly  happy, 
and  enjoys  more  talk,  more  smoke,  more  refreshments. 

Finally,  as  a matter  of  curiosity,  the  buyer  is  requested 
to  name  to  the  rug  merchant  the  price  which  he  had  in  mind, 

Thirty-three 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 


Bokhara 


Antique 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


which  is  usually  about  one-half  the  amount  the  buyer  is  willing 
to  give. 

At  the  mention  of  the  price  offered,  the  rug  merchant  and 
broker,  for  all  transactions  of  any  amount  are  usually  made 
through  a broker,  fall  into  a state  of  deep  melancholy  at  the 
sad  position  of  the  buyer,  who  cannot  secure  this  rare  lot, 
and  the  buyer  sympathizes  with  them  upon  having  given  a 
mental  shock  when  he  named  what  he  could  afford.  Then  there 
is  a really  sad  state  of  affairs,  and  a large  quantity  of  tea  or 
coffee  is  drunk  to  drown  the  sorrow  and  much  tobacco  is 
smoked  to  calm  the  nerves,  and  the  bluff  goes  on,  not  for 
hours  only,  but  sometimes  for  days.  It  is  essentially  an 
American  bluff,  but  so  long  drawn  out  that  the  man  from 
the  Western  world  who  did  not  understand  it  would  be  driven 
to  drink  or  murder  before  a sale  was  consummated. 

The  peculiar  feature  of  this  long  trading  is  that  you 
cannot  convince  an  Eastern  merchant  that  the  Western  buyer 
does  not  take  as  much  pleasure  in  prolonging  the  transaction 
as  he  does  himself.  It  is  very  like  the  faithful  Kaffir  servant 
who  never  could  understand  why  his  English  master  insisted 
upon  the  tenderest  part  of  the  meat,  for,  said  he,  the  pleasure 
of  eating  was  in  the  chewing  of  the  food,  therefore  the  toughest 
part  must  surely  be  the  most  desirable. 

The  buying  is  consummated  by  the  touching  of  hands, 
a ceremony  regarded  as  sacred.  Sometimes  the  broker  will 
lay  one  hand  upon  the  beard,  as  in  the  case  of  the  Caucasian 
merchant  in  the  illustration.  This  act  no  doubt  refers  in  some 
way  to  the  oath  taken  by  the  sacred  beard  of  Mohammed. 

Notwithstanding  the  hand  clasp  and  beard  hold,  which  is 
without  doubt  a most  sacred  contract,  it  sometimes  happens 
that  an  inferior  bale  has,  by  mistake,  been  shipped  to  Europe 
or  America  in  place  of  the  actual  purchase,  therefore  the 
wise  buyer,  when  the  transaction  is  completed,  has  his  porters 
carry  the  rugs  away  for  the  proper  shipment. 

These  remarks  concerning  buying  have,  of  course,  no 
reference  to  the  high  class  merchants,  many  of  whom  are 
found  in  Stamboul,  which  is  the  Turkish  name  for  Con- 
stantinople. 

Happily,  there  is  now  a strong  sentiment  against  buying 
any  rugs  or  other  art  treasures  of  the  Orient  from  any  but 
a reliable  and  thoroughly  established  importer. 

Time  and  again  has  the  writer  been  appealed  to  by  those 
whose  artistic  taste  and  ability  to  satisfy  the  same  have  induced 
Thirty-five 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 


Thirty-six 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


Serapi  Carpet 


Thirty-seven 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 


Persian  Hall  Strip 


them  to  use  this  most  beautiful 
and  hygienic  floor  covering. 
Doubts  have  arisen  as  to  the 
authenticity  of  the  rug,  as  to 
its  age,  as  to  its  purity  of 
design,  color  or  material,  and 
a satisfactory  answer  could  be 
given  only  after  a thorough 
examination,  for  the  tricks  were 
many,  and  it  was  always  a 
test  of  Eastern  and  Western 
brains.  There  is  no  reason  for 
solicitude  on  account  of  the 
Western  brains — they  will  hold 
their  own  with  any  of  the 
Eastern,  and  give  them  a few 
tricks  when  they  are  thoroughly 
alert. 

Rules  without  number  have 
been  laid  down  and  methods 
devised  for  the  testing  of  the 
genuine  qualities  of  Oriental 
rugs,  but  it  is  a fact  that 
a number  of  these  rules  were 
devised  and  introduced  by  cer- 
tain Eastern  merchants  who 
brought  to  this  country,  to 
England  and  France  large 
quantities  of  inferior  work  and 
worse  material. 

The  truth  remains  that  there 
is  no  arbitrary  test  for  the 
genuine  article.  The  burning 
coal  is  just  as  good,  under 
certain  conditions,  for  the 
genuine  as  for  the  bogus. 
The  knots  and  strands  mean 
nothing  except  in  connec- 
tion with  other  important 
elements.  The  washing  of 
the  rug  to  discover  the 
places  which  have  been  painted 
over  with  brush  and  water 
Thirty-eight 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


color  leads  only  to  the  discovery  of  the  deception  practiced 
on  a part  of  the  rug,  which  in  all  other  respects  may  be  as 
aged  and  worthy  of  respect  as  the  hills. 

The  product  of  to-day  may,  with  experienced  manipula- 
tion, look  to  all  appearances  like  a genuine  antique,  but  these 
“antiques,”  made,  as  are  the  “Souvenirs  of  Waterloo,”  cannot 
possess  the  individuality,  the  essence  or  soul  of  the  weaver, 
and  to  an  expert  these  essential  points  are  missed  at  once, 
and  it  is  for  these  reasons  that  the  wise  purchaser  trusts  to 
no  one  save  the  expert,  and  the  experience  and  reputation  of  a 
house  of  national  importance. 

The  shades  and  spots  are  imitated  by  unscrupulous  traders. 
The  Eastern  dyer  lives  and  dyes  as  he  pleases  and  not 
according  to  any  set  rules.  Between  the  puff  of  the  cigarette 
and  a few  words  of  gossip  he  dips  his  tuffs  into  the  pail 
containing  the  dye.  It  is  rarely  that  two  bunches  of  material 
dyed  have  exactly  the  same  shade.  The  time  of  immersion 
differs,  the  density  of  the  dye  is  not  the  same,  and  as  a result 
the  weaver  is  furnished  with  an  almost  endless  variety  of  shades 
which  he  utilizes  with  his  inborn  artistic  feeling  to  produce 
that  incomprehensible  infinity  of  shades,  one  blending  into  the 
other,  no  one  can  point  out  where.  Is  it  then  a matter  for 
wonder  with  the  ever-changing  color  picture,  as  varied  as  the 
rays  of  light,  that  an  Oriental  who  loves  his  art  will  sit  for 
hours  in  silent  contemplation.  Does  he  see  as  Western  eyes  do 
not?  Is  he  not  like  Dickens’  “Barnaby”  in  one  respect,  who 
was  ever  seeing  such  marvelous  pictures,  such  “brave  pictures,” 
in  the  fire,  which  to  ordinary  eyes  were  invisible?  How,  then, 
can  one  successfully  imitate  the  shades  of  nature  by  a machine; 
can  one  paint  the  lily  or  produce  the  beauty  of  the  rose  with 
a loom?  It  has  been  impossible  from  the  earliest  days,  and  it 
is  equally  so  now. 

One  of  the  rules  laid  down  as  nearly  infallible  for  testing 
a genuine  Oriental  rug  is  the  weight.  A rug  of  the  first  class 
should  weigh  a given  amount  or  close  to  it.  This  is  a matter 
easily  overcome  by  “weighting,”  a process  well  known  in  the 
West  and  practiced  with  great  success  in  the  East. 

All  the  rules  laid  down  for  testing  Oriental  rugs  amount 
to  nothing  without  an  expert  knowledge  on  the  subject. 

It  is  self-evident  that  if  the  supply  is  not  equal  to  the 
demand,  which  is  absolutely  true  concerning  fine  goods,  there 
can  be  no  good  reason  for  auction  sales.  These  sales  are  only 
Eastern  tricks  adapted  to  Western  methods.  The  plans  em- 
Thirty-nine 


ass 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 


Lelihan  Rug 

Forty 


Antique  Arab  Rug 
More  than  1,100  years  old 


ployed  to  deceive  might  be  dwelt  upon  for  so  long  a time 
as  to  tax  the  interest  of  every  reader. 

The  one  point  which  should  be  made  clear  is  this:  that 

if  it  is  hazardous  to  purchase  diamonds  from  any  but  the  most 
reliable  house,  it  is  not  the  less  hazardous  to  purchase  Oriental 
rugs  from  any  house  not  having  an  established  reputation. 

The  experienced  buyer  from  the  Occident  knows  the 
peculiarities  of  Oriental  trading.  He  can  recognize  between 
the  faithful  broker  and  merchant  and  the  one  not  to  be  trusted, 
but  for  the  inexperienced  traveler  trading  with  the  Oriental 
merchant,  who  is  born,  dyed,  and  double  dyed  in  the  art  of 
dissimulation  is,  at  best,  dangerous.  When  a bargain  is  finally 
Forty-one 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 


Forty-two 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


struck,  and  the  traveler,  verdant  as  the  hills  in  May,  has  paid 
three  times  what  it  could  be  secured  for  by  one  who  knows 
the  business,  the  affable  merchant  will  make  the  purchaser  feel 
that  he  is  bestowing  a personal  favor,  and  that  body  and 
soul  are  parting  because  he  was  obliged  to  see  his  antique 
go  out  of  his  possession.  The  traveler  usually  finds  that 
the  kindly  and  benevolent  gentleman  has  sold  him  what  might 
in  time  become  an  antique,  but  which  certainly  was  far  from 
being  one  at  the  time  of  buying. 

It  has  been  estimated  that  from  the  time  an  Oriental  rug 
leaves  the  weaver’s  hands  until  it  reaches  the  final  buyer,  there 
are  at  least  six  profits  to  pay. 

Our  plan  of  purchasing  obviates  all  this  immense  and 
unnecessary  profit  to  middlemen.  We 
bring  the  rugs  direct  from  weavers’ 
agents  in  Constantinople  to  our  cus- 
tomers, and  the  saving  of  so  many 
intermediate  profits  enables  us  to  sell 
at  such  comparatively  low  prices. 

However  extensive  one’s  reading 
and  research  may  be  there  is  only 
one  royal  road  which  leads  to 
a knowledge  of  Oriental  rugs, 
and  that  is  to  learn  through 
actual  contact  with  the  article. 

To  write  descriptions  of  the 
weave,  color  scheme,  pattern, 
pile,  and  all  that  information  which 
together  would  constitute  a work  of 
authority  requires  no  small  amount 
of  study  and  investigation ; yet  this 
may  be  accomplished  without  visit- 
ing the  Orient.  The  only  way,  how- 
ever, to  gain  the  most  clear  apprehension 
of  the  subject  is  to  visit  Barker  Bros.’ 
display  frequently,  and  to  have  direct 
communication  with  the  people  who  make 
and  the  people  who  sell.  Even  for  the 
buyer  who  goes  over  twice  a year  and 
purchases  enormous  a Constantinople  Porter 

minntitips  of  everv  These  men  carry  bales  of 
quantities  01  eveij  rugg  to  the  custom  hoUse, 

class  of  ruff,  it  is  and  thence  to  the  dock  where 
_ they  are  placed  on  shipboard 

only  after  years  OI  for  Europe  and  America. 

Forty-three 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 


Cabistan 


Forty-four 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


faithful  study  that  he  will  be  able  to  tell  by  a look  and  a touch 
to  what  class  the  rug  surely  belongs  and  its  approximate  value. 

This  subject  is  one  that  is  practically  without  limit,  but 
as  this  little  book  was  designed  for  a single  reading  much 
technical  matter  has  been  treated  necessarily  very  briefly. 

Two  works  which  have  recently  been  published  should  be 
in  the  library  of  everyone  interested  in  buying  or  selling  rugs 
of  any  description  — “Oriental  Rugs,”  by  John  Kimberly 
Mumford,  and  “Rugs,  Oriental  and  Occidental,”  by  Rosa  Belle 
Holt.  The  works  are  full  from  cover  to  cover  of  informa- 
tion useful  and  interesting,  and  the  cost  is  very  moderate. 

Rugs  will  undoubtedly  continue  to  grow  in  popularity 
the  next  twenty-five  years  as  they  have  during  the  past 
quarter  century,  for  without  doubt  they  make  the  most  beautiful 
as  indeed  the  most  hygienic  floor  covering  conceivable. 

There  is  not  sufficient  space  in  this  simple  book  to  discuss 
the  mysticism  so  closely  identified  with  Oriental  rugs.  The 
two  works  to  which  reference  has  been  made  will  prove  equally 
entertaining  as  instructive. 

To  one  who  has  the  ability  to  properly  interpret  the  sym- 
bolical figures  woven  into  the  fabric,  the  rug’s  value  becomes 
greatly  enhanced,  for  aside  from  the  intrinsic  value  there  are 
the  associations;  and  the  intimate  knowledge  of  these  make 
it  possible  to  weave,  not  alone  on  the  loom,  but  also  in  the 
mind,  a thousand  delightful  stories. 

Rosa  Belle  Holt  in  her  very  valuable  work  on  Rugs  makes 
mention  of  several  inscriptions  which  have  been  worked  into 
the  rugs  of  various  countries.  A Persian  rug  owned  by  Baron 
Nathaniel  Rothschild  has  an  inscription  which  has  been  trans- 
lated : 

Honored  may  thou  he  in  the  world,  among  the  clever  and  wise. 
May  no  sorrow  he  allotted  thee  hy  an  unfavoring  heaven. 
And  may  no  care  torment  thy  heart. 

May  the  earth  he  all  to  thee  that  thou  would’st  have  it  and 
destiny  prove  thy  friend. 

May  high  heaven  he  thy  protector. 

May  thy  rising  star  enlighten  the  world. 

And  the  falling  stars  of  thy  enemies  he  extinguished. 

May  every  act  of  thine  prosper, 

And  may  every  year  and  every  day  he  to  thee  springtime. 

This  is  rather  longer  than  any  other  inscription  of  which 
the  writer  knows.  As  a rule  the  words  are  few. 

Forty- jive 


RUGS 


AND  CARPETS 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


THE  importance  attached  to  Carpets  may  be  indicated  by 
quoting  some  of  the  prices  which  fine  examples  have 
realized  in  recent  years.  This  Table  is  taken  from 
“ORIENTAL  CARPETS”  by  Sydney  Humphries,  published 
by  Adam  and  Charles  Black,  London,  1910: 


1888  Goupil  Sale,  Paris: 

Persian  Rug,  size  7x6 $6,500.00 

Persian  Rug,  size  7x6 4,000.00 

Three  small  Persian  Rugs 7,500.00 

1893  *The  Ardebil  Carpet: 

Persian,  dated  1539;  size  34-6x17-6;  380 

hand-tied  knots  to  the  square  inch 12,500.00 

This  carpet,  which  was  first  exhibited  in 
England  by  Messrs.  Vincent  Robinson  & Co., 

Ltd.,  was  purchased  for  the  nation  at  the  price 


named,  the  sum  of  $3,750.00,  being  contributed 
by  A.  W.  Franks,  C.B. ; E.  Steinkoppf,  William 
Morris  and  J.  E.  Taylor. 


1903  Henry  G.  Marquand  Sale,  New  York: 

Royal  Persian  Rug  of  the  Fifteenth  or  Early 
Sixteenth  Century;  size,  11-10x6-1^;  600 

hand-tied  knots  to  the  square  inch 36,000.00 

Persian  Carpet  of  Middle  Sixteenth  Century; 
size,  16-2x7-1;  195  hand-tied  knots  to 

the  square  inch 15,000.00 

Sixteenth-Century  Ispahan  Carpet;  size  22-8 
x 9-5 ; 156  hand-tied  knots  to  the  square 

inch 15,000.00 

Old  Rug  of  Middle  Persia;  silk;  size  6-11  x 4- 

10;  780  hand-tied  knots  to  the  square  inch  14,100.00 
Old  Carpet  of  Middle  Persia ; size  9-9  x 8-5 ; 

400  hand-tied  knots  to  the  square  inch.  . 7,000.00 

Old  Persian  Prayer  Rug;  silk;  size  5-5  x 3-8; 

468  hand-tied  knots  to  the  square  inch.  . 7,000.00 

Antique  Persian  Prayer  Rug;  size  5-6  x 4-3 ; 

323  hand-tied  knots  to  the  square  inch.  . 4,100.00 

Antique  Rug  of  Western  Persia;  size  8-1  x 
6-5;  168  hand-tied  knots  to  the  square 
inch 4,000.00 

*See  page  51. 


Forty-seven 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 


Antique  Kabistan 


Forty -eight 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


Antique  Sehna  Rug 


Forty -nine 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 


Fifty 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


THE  "ARDEBIL  CARPET" 

Sometimes  Called  “ The  Holy  Carpet ” 

The  world’s  most  famous  Oriental  carpet,  still  in  existence, 
is  the  “Ardebil,”  a Persian  masterpiece  made  in  the  year  1539 
by  the  weaver  Maksoud  for  the  Ardebil  Mosque,  in  which  for 
many  years  it  was  the  Mosque  carpet. 

This  Persian  masterpiece  was  acquired  a generation  ago 
by  the  Victoria  and  Albert  Museum  in  South  Kensington, 
London,  where  it  is  now  on  exhibition.  Its  purchase  price  was 
$12,500,  but  in  view  of  the  prices  paid  by  collectors  of  rare 
Orientals  in  recent  years  it  is  doubtful  whether  $100,000  would 
purchase  it  to-day. 

It  represents  the  labor  of  the  best  part  of  the  life  of  its 
creator,  measures  34^2  x 17f4  feet  and  contains  33,037,200  hand- 
tied  knots,  (380  knots  to  a square  inch). 

The  ground  is  of  a rich  blue  and  is  covered  with  the 
most  intricate  of  old  Persian  floral  designs.  It  has  a central 
medallion  in  pale  yellow  with  corners  to  match.  There  are 
three  border  stripes,  one  wide  one  with  a narrow  one  on  either 
side  of  it.  The  ground  of  the  outer  stripe  is  of  a tawny  yellow 
with  small  floral  designs ; the  ground  of  the  inner  stripe  is 
cream  colored  and  that  of  the  main  stripe  is  of  a rich  brown 
with  round  and  elongated  panels  alternating  and  surrounded 
by  a profusion  of  floral  lines.  Within  these  panels  is  found 
in  Arabic  the  following  inscription: 

“I  have  no  refuge  in  the  world  other  than  my  threshold; 

Mjr  head  has  no  protection  other  than  this  porchway ; 

The  work  of  the  slave  of  the  Holy  Place,  Maksoud  of 

Kashan,  in  the  year  942.” 

This  date  corresponds  to  A.  D.  1539. 

It  must  not  be  inferred  from  this  unassuming  inscription 
that  Maksoud  was  as  insignificant  a person  as  his  self-designa- 
tion  would  suggest.  His  work  on  the  “Ardebil  Carpet”  must 
have  covered  not  less  than  thirty  consecutive  years,  and 
probably  much  more.  No  person  of  even  ordinary  station, 
much  less  a slave,  would  have  been  allowed  to  weave  a carpet 
of  such  importance.  Grandiloquence  and  humility  are,  from 
the  view  point  of  language  alone,  alike  very  misleading  in  the 
East,  and  Maksoud’s  modest  rating  of  his  station  in  life  is 
not  true  according  to  our  idea  of  slavehood. 

This  rug  is  beautiful  in  color  and  design,  though  of 
course,  much  faded  with  age  and  use. 

Fifty -one 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 


Fifty -two 


Bergama  Rug 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


PERSIAN  RUGS 


RUG 

WARP 

WEFT 

KNOTS  TO  INCH 

Horizontal 

Perpen- 

dicular 

Tabriz  

Cotton,  sometimes 

Linen  or  Silk  . . 

Cotton,  single-strand 

Wool  and  Linen  . 

10  to  20 

10  to. 20 

Herez — w h i c h in- 

eludes  Bakhshis 

Gorevan  .... 

Usually  Cotton  . . 

Cotton,  at  times 

Brown  Wool  . . . 

5 to  12 

7 to  14 

Kara  Dagh  .... 

Wool  

Wool  

8 to  11 

9 to  12 

Sehna  

Cotton,  Linen  or  Silk 

Cotton,  single-strand 

Wool,  Linen  . . . 

10  to  20 

10  to  20 

Kurdistan — proper  . 

White  or  Gray  Wool 

Wool,  also  extra  filling 

between  warp  threads 

8 to  11 

8 to  11 

Kermanshah  . . . 

Wool  or  Cotton  . . 

Wool,  Natural  Brown 

or  Dyed 

8 to  12 

8 to  12 

Saraks  or  Bijar  . . 

Wool  

Wool  

7 to  10 

8 to  10 

Koultuk  or  Zenjan 

Cotton,  sometimes 

Wool  

Wool  

7 to  9 

8 to  10 

Souj-Bulak  .... 

Wool  

Wool  

7 to  8 

10  to  11 

Feraghan 

Cotton  

Cotton,  rarely  Wool  . 

5 to  12 

6 to  14 

Sarouk  ...... 

Cotton,  sometimes 

Li  nen 

Cotton,  sometimes 

Linen  

9 to  20 

9 to  20 

Saraband  

Cotton  

Cotton,  sometimes 

colored  

8 to  12 

9 to  14 

Selvile 

Wool,  sometimes  Gray 

Wool,  usually  colored 

7 to  9 

8 to  10 

Hamadan — which  in- 

cludes rugs  from 

the  districts  of  Kara- 

Geuz,  Oustri-Nan, 

etc 

Cotton  

Cotton  or  Wool  . . 

7 to  9 

9 to  11 

“Jooshaghan”  or 

Djushaghan  . . 

Wool  

Wool  

8 toll 

9 to  12 

Kirman 

Cotton  

Wool  

10  to  20 

10  to  20 

Shiraz  

Wool,  sometimes 

coarse  Goats’  Hair 

Wool  

6 to  12 

7 to  14 

Niris 

Wool  

Wool  

6 to  8 

7 to  9 

Khorassan  .... 

Cotton  

Wool  

8 to  11 

9 to  13 

Mesched 

Wool  or  Cotton  . . 

Wool  

8 to  11 

9 to  11 

Herat  

Wool  or  Cotton  . . 

Wool  

8 to  10 

9 to  11 

For  a complete  description  of  Oriental  Rugs  consult  the  Textile  Tables  in  Mumford’s 
Work  entitled  “Oriental  Rugs,”  from  which  work  this  information  is  mainly  derived. 


Fifty-three 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 


Kazak  Rug 


Fifty -four 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


CAUCASIAN 


RUG 

WARP 

WEFT 

KNOTS  TO  INCH 

Horizontal 

Perpen- 

Daghestan  .... 

Generally  Gray  Wool 

Wool  

8 to  12 

9 to  15 

DeRBEND’ 

Brown  Wool  or  Goats’ 

Hair  

Wool  

6 to  9 

7 to  10 

Kabistan  

Wool  or  Cotton  . . 

Usually  Cotton  . . . 

9 to  14 

12  to  15 

Tchechen  or  “Tzitzi” 

Usually  Fine  White 

Wool  

Wool  

7 to  9 

8 to  10 

Tcherkess  or  Circas- 

sian   

Wool  

Wool  

7 to  9 

8 to  10 

Karabagh 

Stout  Wool  .... 

Wool  

6 to  9 

7 to  10 

Soumak  (Flat  Weave) 

Wool  

Wool  

12  to  20 1 

Warp  | 

1 

Threads 

f 

6 to  12 

Shirvan,  with  warp 

to  inch  J 

and  weft  centre 

Wool.  In  Antiques — 

White.  In  Moderns 

— Brown,  Gray  and 

sometimes  parti- 

Antiq.,  i 

| 

colored  

White  Wool  in 

7 to  9 1 

8 to  1 1 

Antiques,  Wool  or 

Mod.  1 

6 to  8 

Cotton  in  Moderns 

5 to  7 J 

I 

Kazak 

Wool  

Wool  

6 to  8 

7 to  9 

Moussul 

Generally  Wool,  some- 

times Cotton  . . . 

Generally  Wool,  some- 

Turkoman or 

times  Cotton  . . . 

6 to  8 

8 to  9 

Genghis 

Dark  Wool  or  Goats’ 

Hair  

Gray  or  Brown  Wool 

6 to  8 

7 to  8 

Moussul  Kurds  . . 

Dark  Wool  or  Goats’ 

Hair  

Gray  or  Brown  Wool 

6 to  7 

6 to  7 

TURKOMAN  RUGS 


Bokhara  or  Tekke  . 

Wool  

Wool  

8 to  20 

8 to  20 

Yomud  

Brownish  Wool  or 

Goats’  Hair  . . . 

Wool  or  Goats’  Hair 

7 to  12 

9 to  14 

“Afghan”  or  Bok- 

hara   

Goats’  Hair  or  Dark 

Wool  

Black  or  Gray  Wool 

or  Goats’  Hair  . . 

6 to  9 

7 to  10 

Samarkand  .... 

Coarse  Cotton  or  Silk, 

occasionally  Wool  . 

Cotton  or  Wool  . . 

6 to  8 

5 to  7 

Beluchistan  .... 

Wool  

Wool  

5 to  12 

6 to  10 

Yarkand  and  Kash- 

gar   

Coarse  Cotton  . . . 

Cotton  

5 to  7 

5 to  7 

TURKISH 


Konieh 


Kir  §hehr 

Kaba  Karaman 
Yuruk  . . . 


Anatolian  or  Caes- 
areans   

Ghiordes — Antique  . 


Ghiordes — Modern 
Kulah — Antique  . 
Kulah — Modern  . 
Demirdji  .... 

OuSHAK  .... 

Bergamo 

Ladik 

Ak-Hissar  and  other 

Mohairs 

Meles  or  Carian  . . 


Antique  fine  Wool. 
Modern,  Coarse 
Wool,  parti-colored 

Fine  Wool 

7 to  9 

8 to  10 
5 to  7 

Wool  

Wool  

7 to  10 

7 to  8 

Coarse  Wool  .... 

Wool  or  Cotton  . . 

4 to  6 

7 to  10 
4 to  6 

Brown  Wool  or  Goats’ 
Hair  

Brown  Wool  or  Goats’ 
Hair  

6 to  7 

7 to  9 

Generally  Wool  . . 

Generally  Wool  . . 

7 to  10 

9 to  12 

Fine  Wool,  Cotton  or 
Silk 

Cotton,  Linen,  or 
sometimes  single- 

strand Wool  . . . 

9 to  12 

10  to  12 

Coarse  Wool  .... 

Usually  Cotton  . . . 

4 to  8 

4 to  9 

Fine  Wool 

Fine  Wool 

8 to  10 

8 to  12 

Coarse  Wool  .... 

Cotton  or  Wool  . . 

4 to  7 

4 to  7 

Coarse  Wool  .... 

Coarse  Wool  .... 

6 to  8 

6 to  8 

Wool  

Wool  

4 to  9 

4 to  9 

Fine  Wool 

Wool  

8 to  10 

10  to  12 

Very  fine  Wool  . . 

Wool  

10  to  12 

10  to  12 

Coarse  Wool  .... 

Coarse  Wool  .... 

6 to  9 

6 to  9 

Wool  

Cotton  or  Wool  . . 

5 to  9 

5 to  10 

Fifty-five 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 


Hamad an 


Fifty-six 


mm 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


IW9 

aim 


Fifty-seven 


Antique  Kislaiak  Bokhara 


Constantinople 


Any  book  on  Oriental  rugs,  however  humble,  would  not  be 
complete  without  frequent  references  to  the  “City  of  the 
Sultans,”  Constantinople,  called  by  the  Turks  Stamboul  or 
Istamboul. 

The  city  of  Constantinople  was  founded  by  the  Emperor 
Constantine  in  328  A.  D.,  upon  the  site  of  Byzantium,  which 
town  dated  back  to  658  B.  C. 

Constantine,  seeking  a new  Roman  capital  in  the  Orient, 
founded  New  Rome,  which  later  became  known  as  Constanti- 
nople. His  choice  of  this  site,  so  admirably  situated  at  the 
junction  of  two  seas  and  two  continents,  was,  as  Dean  Stanley 
puts  it,  “The  most  convincing  and  enduring  proof  of  his  real 
genius.” 

Constantinople  has  ever  been  the  great  central  distributing 
market  for  Oriental  rugs.  To  it  the  products  of  every  Eastern 
land  go,  and  from  it  the  Eastern  world  draws  its  largest 
supply. 

It  would  be  quite  impossible  to  give  here  even  a cursory 
history  of  this  city,  with  its  centuries  of  romance,  mystery 
and  bloodshed;  but,  after  consultation  with  friends  who  are 
familiar  with  the  Orient  and  the  rug  trade,  it  was  decided  to 
add  to  the  story  of  the  rugs  a few  views  of  Constantinople, 
which  it  was  believed  would  prove  of  interest. 

The  illustrations  and  reading  matter  upon  page  72 
and  the  succeeding  ones  are  more  closely  identified  with  a 
generation  ago  than  the  present  day,  and,  because  of  the 
impossibility  of  ever  reproducing  the  original  steel  engravings, 
are  of  more  than  ordinary  interest. 

While  it  is  true  that  the  mode  of  life  in  the  East  changes  but 
little  in  centuries,  it  is  also  true  that  many  innovations  have  occurred 
in  the  Capital  and  its  environments  in  the  past  twenty-five  years. 
The  European  and  American  influences  have  made  a great  differ- 
ence, and  the  Constantinople  of  to-day  is  not  as  it  was  a generation 
back. 

The  merit,  if  there  be  any,  in  pages  72  to  84,  lies  in  the  fact 
that  the  scenes  delineated  can  never  be  so  viewed  again  for  they 
are  of  the  past. 

There  are  a thousand  places  of  interest  in  the  Capital  which 
have  not  been  referred  to  lest  the  subject  become  tiresome  and  the 
reader,  who  expected  Oriental  rugs,  should  feel  that  he  was  receiv- 
ing too  long  a story  concerning  Constantinople. 

Fifty -nine 


In  a Stamboul  Coffeehouse 


Turkish  coffee  is  to  be  obtained  everywhere  in  such  places 
as  this,  or  from  the  “kafedji”  who  sets  up  his  little  stall  at  the 
corner  of  the  street  and  presides  over  it  in  his  picturesque  garb. 


Dancing  Dervishes 


One  of  the  religious  sects  that  divide  Islam.  These  Der- 
vishes perform  a peculiar  whirling  dance  gradually  working  them- 
selves up  into  a frenzy  of  excitement,  their  hope  being  to  apprehend 
the  Divine  in  their  ecstasy.  Sixt 


The  Galata  Bridge 

Crossing  the  Golden  Horn  and  linking  Stamboul  with  Galata 
(the  shipping  district  of  Constantinople),  and  Pera  (where  the 
European  and  American  Consulates  and  Embassies  are  located). 


The  Grand  Bazaar 

The  Department  Store  of  the  Orient.  The  far  Eastern  mer- 
chant displays  his  wares  in  vault-like  passages  like  that  illustrated. 

Sixty-one 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 


CHURCH  AND  MOSQUE  OF  ST.  SOPHIA 

The  most  celebrated  in  Constantinople ; was  originally  built 
by  the  Emperor  Constantine  in  325-26,  on  the  occasion  of  the 
translation  of  the  seat  of  empire  to  Byzantium;  and  was  so  called 
as  being  dedicated,  not  as  commonly  supposed,  to  a saint  of  that 
name,  but  to  the  “Hagia  Sophia”  (Holy  Wisdom),  i.  e.,  to  the 
Eternal  Wisdom  of  God,  or  the  Logos,  the  second  person  of  the 
Trinity.  The  building  of  Constantine  was  subsequently  rebuilt 


Exterior— Mosque  of  St.  Sophia 

and  enlarged  by  his  son,  Constantius ; and  this  second  church  of 
Constantius  having  been  destroyed  in  404,  was  rebuilt  by  Theo- 
dosius the  Younger  in  415.  It  lasted  unaltered  until  the  cele- 
brated Nika  Sedition,  or  Battle  of  the  Factions  of  the  Circus 
under  Justinian  in  532  in  which  it  was  totally  destroyed. 

The  present  building  is  substantially  that  which  was  erected 
by  Justinian  in  expiation  of  that  sacrilege.  It  occupied  no  less 
than  seven  years  in  its  erection,  and  the  history  of  the  work  and 
of  the  details  of  its  material  and  construction  are  full  of  marvels. 
Ten  thousand  workmen  are  said  to  have  been  employed  upon  it. 
The  materials  were  supplied  from  every  part  of  the  empire,  and 

Sixty-two 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


comprised  remains  of  almost  every  celebrated  temple  of  the  ancient 
paganism.  The  dome  of  the  tabernacle  was  of  pure  gold  and  was 
surmounted  by  a gold  cross  weighing  75  pounds  and  incrusted 
with  precious  stones.  All  the  sacred  vessels  and  other  apparatus 
were  of  gold.  The  altar-cloths  were  embroidered  with  gold  and 
pearls ; and  the  altar  itself  was  composed  of  a mass  of  molten 
gold,  into  which  were  thrown  pearls,  sapphires,  diamonds,  onyxes, 
and  every  other  object  which  could  raise  its  costliness  to  the 
highest  imaginable  degree.  In  the  center  rises  a dome  which  is 
supported  by  two  great  semi-domes,  the  whole  presenting  a scene 


Interior  of  St.  Sophia 

of  unexampled  beauty.  The  height  of  the  dome  is  175  feet.  The 
building  is  approached  by  a double  porch,  which  is  about  100 
feet  in  depth.  The  whole  of  the  interior  is  richly  decorated  with 
sculptured  marble  and  mosaics.  On  the  occupation  of  the  city 
by  the  Turks  in  1453,  St.  Sophia  was  appropriated  as  a mosque. 
All  its  purely  Christian  fittings  and  internal  structures  were 
swept  away.  The  Christian  emblems  were  either  mutilated  or 
covered  up  from  view  by  a coating  of  plaster. 

The  most  pronounced  effect  upon  one  who  visits  St.  Sophia 
for  the  first  time  is  its  vastness.  After  becoming  familiar  with 
this  feeling,  one  visitor  may  become  interested  in  the  richly 

Sixty-three 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 


mosaiced  floors,  or  the  Imperial  closet  that  faces  the  pulpit  and 
which  is  of  marble  most  wonderfully  worked,  or  one  or  more  of 
the  thousand  interesting  matters,  but  the  first  impression  on  a 
visitor  is  the  vastness  of  the  structure. 

The  building  is  very  peculiar  in  many  respects.  Its  vastness 
is  exaggerated  by  the  fact  that  there  is  no  furniture,  as  in 
Christian  churches,  and  because  of  the  wonderful  dome.  The 
visitor  is  usually  impressed  because  of  the  magnificent  and 
gigantic  pillars.  There  are  eight,  of  porphyry  from  the  temple  of 
Heliopolis.  There  are  verd  antique  from  Ephesus,  Egyptian  granite 
and  rare  marbles — and  aside  from  any  sentiment,  the  effect  upon 
the  visitor  is  profound.  The  blue  doves  sometimes  fly  from  place 
to  place,  the  descendants  of  the  birds  which  the  Turks  found 
there  when  it  was  a Christian  church  instead  of  a Moslem  mosque, 
one  of  the  particular  features  of  the  spot,  and  they  are  watched 
over  with  care,  and  woe  betide  him  who  would  injure  one. 

The  legends  connected  with  St.  Sophia  would  be  sufficient  to 
make  volumes.  The  Bishops’  Gate,  the  Sweating  Stone,  all  are 
intensely  interesting,  but  the  court  is,  after  all,  the  place  of 
interest  for  those  in  business. 

The  red-capped  soldier,  the  tall  and  slim  Effendi,  turbaned 
in  cashmere,  will  be  found  there,  and  here  also  will  be  seen  the 
Emir  in  green  robe,  proud  to  announce  to  the  world  that  he  is 
a descendant  of  the  Prophet;  the  Dervish,  with  his  conical  hat 
of  grey  felt;  a Santon,  or  saint,  with  more  supposed  gifts  from 
the  gods  than  the  gods  ever  dreamed  of  having  themselves,  and 
more  filthy  than  a depraved  Kaffir ; all  these  and  many  others 
will  be  found  in  the  Court.  But  the  ones  of  most  interest  are 
the  merchants.  The  pilgrim  merchant,  or  had j is,  will  spread  his 
mat  and  offer  for  sale  all  sorts  of  relics  from  Mecca  — charms 
against  snake  bite,  against  the  evil  eye.  If  he  were  wise  and 
had  a Western  partner,  he  would  come  to  America  and  do  a 
power  of  charming  to  more  purpose. 

These  merchants  will  go  to  any  extremity  to  prove  the  value 
of  the  goods  offered.  The  dye  will  be  thrown  upon  a piece  of 
cloth,  or  rubbed  freely  into  the  beard  to  show  that  it  is  as  good 
as  claimed.  The  chaplet  of  Arabian  wood  is  rubbed  through  the 
hands  in  a brisk  manner  and  the  perfume  developed.  If  the 
stranger  purchases,  he  probably  pays  five  times  the  value  of  the 
article,  but  has  the  problematical  satisfaction  of  having  been 
taken  in  by  an  adept  who  had  the  power  to  cause  his  mind  to 
become  absorbed  with  the  article  offered  for  sale. 

When  the  sale  is  concluded,  the  one  who  made  it  and  the 
other  merchants  who  have  taken  a great  interest  in  the  transac- 
tions will  murmur  or  say  aloud,  “Allah  buyuk  der”  (God  is 
great),  after  which  the  pipes  will  be  resumed  and  the  story  con- 
tinued from  where  it  left  off. 

Sixty-four 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


The  Imperial  Palace  of  Dolma-Baghtche 

The  residence  of  the  present  Snltan.  The  water  in  the  fore- 
ground is  the  Bosporus. 


Yildiz  Palace  and  Hamidieh  Mosque 

The  residence  of  the  late  Sultan  Abd-ul-Hamid  until  his 
abdication  in  1909.  It  has  been  the  scene  of  many  a dark  tragedy. 
Illustrating  the  cruelty  of  its  late  tenant,  the  story  is  told  of  a 
gang  of  workmen  who  were  summoned  from  a distant  city  to  dig 
a hiding  place  in  the  grounds  of  Yildiz  in  which  Abd-ul-Hamid 
desired  to  bury  some  treasure  unknown  to  others.  The  work  was 
satisfactorily  done  under  his  own  eyes,  and  he  had  a good  meal 
provided  for  the  men.  Then,  in  a freak  of  his  fiendish  humor,  he 
ordered  double  pay  handed  them  on  the  spot.  They  never  spent  it. 
A few  minutes  later  they  were  congregated  into  an  outhouse  in 
another  part  of  the  grounds,  and  suddenly  the  flooring  gave  way 
beneath  them.  This  was  the  late  Sultan’s  method  of  insuring  their 
secrecy.  No  one  will  question  its  effectiveness. 

Sixty-five 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 


Ahmedieh  Mosque  and  the  Hippodrome 


The  Ceremony  of  the  Selamlik  at  Dolma-Baghtche 


Here  is  shown  Sultan  Mohamed  V,  leaving  his  palace  at  Dolma 
Baghtche  for  the  Mosque  on  Friday  (the  Mohamedan  Sabbath). 
The  Bosporus  is  just  visible  in  the  I background. 


Sixty-six 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


Beggars  in  Stamboul 

Members  of  a privileged  class  pursuing  their  chosen  vocation 


Sixty-seven 


RUGS'  AND  CARPETS 


The  Seven  Towers 

On  the  old  wall  of  Constantinople  at  the  entrance  into  the 
City  on  the  Stamboul  side.  The  railroad  passes  through  this  wall. 


Prinkipo  or  Princes  Island 

A summer  resort  of  the  wealthy  residents  of  Constantinople. 
In  the  Sea  of  Marmora  about  one  hour’s  sail  from  Stamboul. 

Sixty-eight 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


Sixty-nine 


The  Stamboul  Fire  Department 
Looks  somewhat  strange  to  Occidental  eyes 


A Scene  Along  the  Bosporus 

The  Bosporus  is  the  strait  which  connects  the  Sea  of  Marmora  with  the  Black  Sea 


Turkish  Rapid  Transit 
A Traveling  Baker  in  Asia  Minor 


Seventy 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


An  Oriental  Cake  Vender 


Seventy-one 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 


THE  BOSPORUS 

THIS  is  one  of  the  great  historic  bodies  of  water.  It  connects  the 
Sea  of  Marmora  with  the  Black  Sea,  and  separates  Europe 
from  Asia.  The  view  presented  is  opposite  the  Genoese 
Castle  and  is  one  of  the  most  delightful  in  the  world;  unique, 
for  there  is  only  one  “City  of  the  Sultans”  and  one  Bosporus. 
Byron  describes  the  situation  simply  and  beautifully: 

“ ’Tis  a grand  sight,  from  off  the  Giant’s  Grave, 

To  watch  the  progress  of  those  rolling  seas 
Between  the  Bosporus,  as  they  lash  and  lave 
Europe  and  Asia.” 

The  length  of  the  Bosporus  is  about  17  miles  and  its  breadth 
varies  from  a third  of  a mile  to  two  miles.  The  name  signifies 
Ox-ford  or  Cow-ford,  for  it  was  here,  legend  says,  Io,  transformed 
into  a cow,  swam  across.  The  depth  of  the  stream  varies  from 

about  148  to 
388  feet  and 
the  rapid 
currents  from 
the  Black  Sea 
to  the  Sea  of 
Marmora  pro- 
duce a counter 
current  along 
the  shores, 
which  at 
times  makes 
a commotion 
not  quickly 
forgotten. 

The  stream 

is  one  so  closely  identified  with  the  history  of  Europe  and  Asia, 
and  so  often  written  and  spoken  of,  that  to  dwell  upon  the  subject 
in  this  monograph  would  be  time  wasted. 

The  palaces  along  the  banks  form  not  the  least  interesting 
feature.  If  the  history  of  each  were  told  many  volumes  could 
be  filled. 

From  the  palace  a most  charming  view  of  the  Bosporus  is 
obtained,  together  with  Scutari  and  the  bald  and  white  Mount 
Olympus.  This  beautiful  scene  combined  goes  to  make  up  the 
grand  and  imposing  city  of  the  seven  hills  and  its  suburbs. 

Seventy-two 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


There  is  no  palace  or  mosque  in  the  East  that  is  not  closely 
associated  with  traditions  more  or  less  interesting,  and  the  palace 
of  Beshik-Tash  is  no  exception. 

One  of  the  stories  connected  with  this  edifice  is  interesting, 
even  though  greatly  abridged.  Sultan  Mahmoud,  in  his  youth, 
was  prevailed  upon  to  consult  certain  astrologers,  and  among 
other  words  of  wisdom  and  folly  given,  he  was  informed  that 
so  long  as  he 
continued  to 
build  palaces 
his  success 
would  be  as- 
sured. 

Firmly 
believing  in 
this  message, 
he  built 
about  fifty- 
seven  kiosks 
in  the  neigh- 
borhood o f 
the  Capital, 
which  were 
more  or  less 

elaborate.  The  last  one,  Beshik-Tash,  was  the  largest  and  the  least 
worthy  of  commendation. 

An  Armenian  was  selected  to  build  the  palace,  but  he  would 
not  admit  that  any  of  the  Padishas  (sovereigns)  of  Europe 
occupied  so  grand  or  imposing  palaces  as  those  of  Constantinople. 
The  Sultan,  who  had  the  plans  of  every  palace  in  Europe,  asked 
the  architect  if  he  was  a liar,  or  were  all  the  people  in  Europe 
from  whom  he  had  received  the  plans  liars  ? The  end  of  that 
architect  was  sudden. 

The  Armenian  architect  who  was  finally  selected  to  build  the 
palace  produced  a thoroughly  European  structure  (as  Mahmoud 
ordered)  at  a cost  of  about  five  million  dollars,  but  the  result 
was  far  from  satisfactory.  If  the  magnificent  and  well  propor- 
tioned columns  that  support  the  open  peristyle  were  removed,  the 
huge  pile  would  look  like  a factory.  There  are  many  interesting 
stories  which  might  be  written  concerning  Beshik-Tash  did  space 
permit. 

If  one  is  familiar  with  the  affairs  of  the  East,  he  might  tell 
to  one  unfamiliar,  from  the  comfortable  caique  as  they  floated 
along,  the  history  of  many  of  these  dwellings.  This  was  the 
residence  of  a court  favorite.  This  was  the  former  home  of  a 

Seventy-three 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 


Bey  or  Minister  now  dead  or  disgraced,  but  every  one  sadly  going 
to  ruin.  The  heavy  hand  of  time  has  fallen,  and  what  was  once 
the  grandest  now  looks  poor  and  delapidated;  but,  notwithstand- 
ing all,  the 
ancient  gran- 
deur will  re- 
main until 
there  is  not 
one  stone  left 
upon  another. 

The  homes 
of  those  who 
have  power 
and  wealth  is 
all  that  poet 
or  painter 
could  deline- 
ate. A volume 

Turkish  country  houses  on  the  Bosporus  might  be 

written  about 

the  summer  houses  on  the  Bosporus,  and  it  would  not  prove 
uninteresting. 


The  scene  below  depicts  two  famous  fortresses  about  half  way 
up  the  Bosporus,  where  the  channel  is  usually  narrow.  They  have 
been  used  as  prisons  and  were  the  scenes  of  many  executions 

in  bygone 
days,  of  which 
many  grew- 
some  relics 
may  be  seen. 
On  the  Euro- 
pean side  the 
ground  - plan 
is  formed  by 
the  characters 
of  the  pro- 
phet’s name, 
and  it  was 
this  fortress 
that  held  the 
J anissari  e s 
the  execution 

had  marked  for  death.  A history  of  these 
story  from  the  “Arabian  Nights.” 

Seventy-four 


The  Castles  of  Europe  and  Asia 

and  the  large  gun  which  announced  to  the  Sultan 
of  those  whom  he 
castles  reads  like  s 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


Yenikeui  is  situated  on  the  European  side  of  the  Bosporus, 
about  two  miles  from  Therapia.  It  is  most  delightfully  located; 
in  many  places  the  waters  of  the  strait  beat  against  the  founda- 
tions of  the  houses  and  overflow  the  narrow  terraces  from  which 
the  caiques  are  taken  for  a sail  either  on  business  or  pleasure  bent. 

If  o n e’ s 
mind  is  at 
rest,  the  de- 
lightful life 
which  can  be 
spent  in  and 
near  Yenikeui 
has  few  coun- 
terparts in  the 
world. 

Some  of  the 
houses  over- 
hang the  sea, 
a novel  situa- 

ation,  particularly  on  a stormy  night.  The  heights  above  are  thickly 
wooded,  and  many  beautiful  homes  have  been  built,  which  are 
occupied  mainly  by  the  wealthy  Greek  and  Armenian  merchants 
during  the  hot  months,  and,  did  space  permit,  some  very  interest- 
ing stories  might  be  told  concerning  them.  Dooz  Oglue  was  a 
mighty  power  as  a banker  and  diplomat;  he  was  not  alone  wealthy, 
but  talented  as  well.  In,  for  him,  an  evil  moment  he  decided  to 
build  a palace  at  Yenikeui,  and  at  a fabulous  sum  secured  the 
sites  of  thirty-five  houses.  An  enormous  sum  was  spent  to  erect 
the  structure,  and  the  cupidity  of  the  Ottoman  court  was  excited. 
The  banker  was  accused  of  usury — which  was  probably  true — 
of  treason,  which  was  a myth ; but  there  were  sufficient  crimes 
charged  against  him  to  cause  his  hanging  from  his  own  threshold. 
He  probably  did  not  “see”  the  police  commission  in  time  to  receive 
the  protection  of  which  so  much  is  known  in  the  United  States. 
Notwithstanding  that  the  East  and  the  West  are  far  apart,  there 
is  almost  always  for  him  who  has  money  a way  out,  if  he  only 
finds  the  right  door. 


Yenikeui  on  the  Bosporus 


Seventy-fiz,e 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 


Almost  all  the  fountains  in  Constantinople  are  worthy  of  note. 
The  fountain  at  Galata  is  perhaps  one  of  the  best  examples 

of  the  pure 
Moorish  style. 
Here  all 
gather  who 
long  for  a 
little  rest. 
The  khamal, 
or  porter, 
will  drop  his 
heavy  load 
and  refresh 
himself  with 
drink  which 
God  gave  to 
Fountain  in  Galata  man  pure 

and  sparkling 

water — and  at  this  rendezvous,  at  all  times,  there  will  be  found 
numerous  merchants  plying  their  trades. 


From  this  point  a magnificent  view  of  the  Bosporus  is  ob- 
tained. Nearly  the  entire  length  of  this  grand  body  of  water 

can  be  seen 


and  the  snow- 
covered 
Mount  Olym- 
pus flashes 
out  through 
the  clear  blue 
sky  like  unto 
a pearl  set  in 
a cluster  of 
sapphires. 
The  palace, 
although  it 
cost  a vast 


Scene  from  above  the  new  palace  of  Beshik-Tash,  etc. 


sum  (about 
five  million 

dollars)  and  is  enormous  nr  its  proportions,  amounts  to  compara- 
tively nothing.  It  is  the  beautiful  situation  that  appeals  to  one. 

Seventy-six 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


Eyoub,  one  of  the  most  sacred  spots  to  the  Mohammedan, 
is  delightfully  situated.  It  commands  a complete  view  of  the 
Golden  Horn  and  a long  distance  up  the  Bosporus.  The  beauti- 
ful mosque  of 
pure  white 
marble  has  a 
court  glori- 
ously shaded 
by  gigantic 
trees,  and 
paved  with 
marble.  The 
mosque  is 
never  entered 
by  an  un- 
believer and 
even  the  court 
is  reluctantly 
allowed  to 
those  not  of  Eyoub  with  its  Mosque  Cemetery 

the  faith.  Upon  this  spot,  tradition  says,  that  Abu  Eyoub,  who 
was  the  companion  of  the  Prophet  during  the  siege  of  the  Saracens 
in  668,  was  slain,  and  it  is  in  this  mosque  that  every  Sultan 
is  invested  with  the  sword  of  sovereignty  upon  his  assession. 
The  grand  mosque  and  the  interesting  cemetery  abound  with  historic 
interest. 

The  beauti- 
ful mosque  of 
Yeni  D j ami. 
known  also  as 
as  Sultana 
V a 1 i d e,  was 
built  by  the 
mother  of 

Mohammed 
IV.,  and  is  es- 
teemed one  of 
the  most  mag- 
nificent in  the 
capital.  The 
minarets  are 
peculiarly  ele- 
g a n t , each 

being  encircled  by  no  less  than  three  galleries,  of  the  most 
minute  and  thickly-perforated  sculpture  in  the  Saracenic  taste. 
The  portal  is  of  ponderous  size,  and  the  brazen  gates  are 

Seventy-seven 


Yeni  Djami 

‘ Lightly  tread,  ’tis  hallowed  ground  ” 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 


The  Mausoleum  of  Suleimanie 


thickly  stud- 
d e d with 
m o t h e r-o  f- 
pearl ; three 
lofty  arches 
enclose  an 
open  peri- 
style, terraced 
in,  and  suffi- 
ciently spa- 
cious to  ac- 
commod  ate 
more  than  one 
hundred  per- 
sons.  The 
double  range 
of  exterior 

galleries,  running  along  the  facade  of  the  temple,  are  of  fine  and 
delicate  workmanship,  and  the  arches  by  which  they  are  formed 
are  chastely  and  beautifully  designed.  The  principal  dome  springs 
majestically  from  the  centre  of  the  spacious  roof,  and  rests  upon 

four  lesser  ones,  which  appear 
to  lift  it  to  the  clouds ; while 
the  tomb  of  the  illustrious 
founder  nestles  beneath  the 
more  lofty  edifice,  compara- 
tively minute  in  size,  but 
equally  elegant  in  construc- 
tion. 

After  passing  through  the 
beautifully  covered  way  from 
the  outer  court  of  Suleimanie 
you  reach  the  tomb  of  Sulei- 
manie, a light  and  elegant 
sex-angular  structure.  There 
is  little  to  suggest  a house  of 
death,  even  when  one  steps 
across  the  rich  carpet  to  the 
sarcophagi. 

The  two  daughters  of  the 
great  Sultan  are  close  by  and 
only  a few  paces  away  lies 
the  favorite  wife  of  Sulei- 
manie, the  beautiful  and 

Interior  of  the  Mausoleum  of  Suleimanie,  Povnlann  wlinsp 

Sultan  Achmet  and  Roxalana  biOOd-tUirsty  ttoxalana,  wnose 

In  the  foreground,  on  a stand,  there  is  a model  H£e  was  more  like  that  of  a 
of  the  mosque  at  Mecca  and  the  Prophet  s , . 

tomb,  with  pilgrims  arriving  and  departing,  woll  than  that  ot  a woman, 
altogether  a beautiful  miniature. 


Seventy-eight 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


The  mosque 
of  Sulei- 
manie  is  re- 
garded  by 
many  as  the 
most  elegant 
religious  edi- 
fice in  Con- 
stantinople. 

The  wonder- 
fully painted 
windows, 
which  have, 
for  their  style, 
no  rivals  in 

the  world  Mosque  of  Suleimanie 

, , From  Sebraskier’s  Tower 

were  taken 

from  the  Persians,  so  it  is  said,  by  Suleimanie  to  decorate  the 
temple  which  he  founded. 


The  beautiful  and  graceful 
but  well-proportioned  pillars, 
the  capitals  that  the  support 
stamps  this  building  as  one  of 
the  most  interesting  in  the 
world,  and  quite  distinct  from 
any  other  edifice  in  Constan- 
tinople. One  might  write  pages 
concerning  the  architecture  of 
the  four  columns  of  prophyry, 
the  relics  of  an  ancient  temple, 
which  now  are  at  the  angles, 
or  of  the  delicate  Arabian 
architecture  of  the  arches,  or 
a thousand  and  one  matters ; 
but  the  chief  feature,  after  all, 
which  distinguishes  Suleimanie 
above  all  mosques  is  the  fact 
that  for  hundreds  of  years  it 
has  been  a storehouse  of  the 
faithful,  and  of  the  unfaithful 
as  well. 

The  beautiful  and  richly 
decorated  gallery  which  ex- 
tends along  the  entire  northern 


dome  is  supported  by  four  slight 
The  dome  rests  so  lightly  upon 
appears  quite  unnecessary,  and 


Interior  of  the  Mosque  of  Sultan  Suleimanie, 
the  Magnificent 


Seventy -nine 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 


face  of  the  edifice  is  filled  with  chests  of  all  sizes  and 
descriptions;  the  coarse  cypress,  painted  a dull  green  and 
adorned  with  mammoth  flowers,  quite  as  coarse  as  the  box; 
the  fine  cedar,  with  clasps,  each  having  the  sign  manual  of 
its  owner;  the  chests  of  nobles,  iron  clamped  and  sealed  again 
and  again,  alongside  of  which  may  be  the  treasures  of  the  “Kaitab,” 
the  reader  of  the  Koran,  or  that  of  an  official  courier ; but,  what- 
soever your  faith  may  be,  you  can  be  assured  that  you  will  receive 
any  package,  at  any  time,  just  as  it  was  received,  and  if  you  die, 
as  all  must,  your  heirs  will  have  no  trouble  in  securing  the 
property. 

Each  package  is  marked  with  a sign,  or  hieroglyphic,  which 
is  known  only  to  the  owner  and  the  custodian.  There  is  no  tax, 
and  many  cases  have  been  in  this  mosque  for  over  a century. 
Wars  may  rage,  but  this  place  is  never  disturbed.  It  is  sacred 
to  the  living  and  to  the  dead. 

The  posi- 
tion of  the 
Mosque  of 
Sultan  Ach- 
met  is  very 
grand.  It 
occupies  one 
of  the  most 
elevated  posi- 
tions in  the 
city,  and  has 
the  distinc- 
tion of  hav- 
ing six  min- 
arets, which, 
it  is  said, 
were  erected 

by  the  Sultan  to  rival  the  temple  at  Mecca.  When  these 
minarets  were  erected  after  the  sanction  of  the  Mufti,  reluctantly 
given,  the  Mufti  added  one  other  minaret  to  the  mosque  which 
was  sanctified  by  the  Prophet  so  that  it  might  have  more  distinc- 
tion than  that  of  any  other.  It  is  less  spacious  than  St.  Sophia, 
and  less  elegant  in  its  details  than  other  mosques,  but  in  exterior 
effect  far  superior.  There  are  many  interesting  associations  con- 
cerning this  mosque  in  connection  with  the  refusal  of  the  Janis- 
saries to  submit  themselves  to  the  Sultan. 

The  mosque  occupies  the  site  of  the  Atmeidan,  or  Place  of 
Horses,  and  is  separated  from  the  ancient  Roman  race-course  by 
a marble  wall  and  gilt  railing. 


Court  of  the  Mosque  of  Sultan  Achmet 


Eighty 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


In  the  near  vicinity  of  the  mosque  there  are  many  interest- 
ing and  historic  spots.  One,  the  monument  to  Constantine,  a 
square  pillar  ninety  feet  in  height,  occupies  a space  at  the  upper 
end  of  the  Atmeidan,  but  to  which  of  the  fourteen  Constantines 
it  was  originally  dedicated  no  one  can  tell. 

Everything,  however  full  of  interest  in  the  City  of  the  Three 
Seas,  gives  way  before  the  charms  of  the  bazaars.  The  con- 
stantly shifting  groups,  the 
innumerable  costumes  and 
races  of  people,  together  with 
the  endless  variety  of  articles 
offered  for  sale,  make  the 
bazaars  of  Constantinople  a 
scene  ever  to  be  remembered. 

Each  avenue  is  devoted  to  a 
particular  line  of  goods,  and 
if  the  complete  story  of  the 
Tchartchi  is  ever  written,  it 
will  make  a most  interesting 
volume. 

Here  is  the  central  point, 
the  rendezvous  for  all  those 
who  desire  to  gossip  or  in- 
trigue. Here  also  gather  the 
Turk,  Armenian,  Persian, 

Greek  and  the  Jew,  with  many 
other  nations  and  religions, 
each  on  money-making  bent. 

The  bazaars  and  the  baths 
are  probably  the  most  important  features  of  life  in  Constantinople, 
where  the  gossip  or  news  of  the  day  is  to  be  received  or  given. 

The  bazaar  is  like  a cluster  of  streets,  each  devoted  to  a 
particular  branch  of  trade,  and  on  the  whole  resembles  a small 
covered  town  supported  by  arches  of  solid  masonry. 

The  street  known  as  Bezenstein  is  the  one  devoted  to  jewel- 
ers. The  plain,  rug  covered,  wooden  counters,  fixed  on  a raised 
platform,  affords  a place  for  the  display  of  such  articles  as  the 
merchant  desires  to  exhibit  to  the  public,  and  a glance  into  the 
glass  cases  on  the  counter  would  make  one  believe  that  the  stock 
was  particularly  small  and  poor ; but  let  the  real  buyer  come  along, 
and  the  Armenian  (almost  all  the  dealers  are  Armenians)  will 
quickly  open  the  doors  of  the  inner  apartment  and  a collection 
of  jewels  sufficient  to  satisfy  anyone  and  suitable  for  every  pur- 
pose will  be  offered  for  inspection. 

Eighty-one 


Scene  in  the  Tchartchi  or  Bazaar 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 


The  Seraglio  Point  has  been  so  often  described  that  it  is  merely 
necessary  to  introduce  the  present  beautiful  sketch,  by  explain- 
ing that  it  is  taken  from  a height,  and,  consequently,  com- 
presses and 
embraces  a 
greater  num- 
ber of  objects 
than  have  yet 
been  intro- 
duced into 
one  view  of 
this  celebrated 
spot.  The 
Serai  Bournou 
is  more  fully 
revealed,  with 
its  clustering 
domes  and 
kiosks;  St. 
Sophia  lords 

Eighty-two 


The  Armory  Bazaar  is  one 
of  the  most  interesting,  for 
here  one  may  be  supplied 

in  a few  minutes  with  the 
most  ancient  arms  or  armor, 
or  with  the  latest  and  most 
improved  products  of  the 

W estern  world.  One  may, 
when  the  price  is  settled 
upon,  be,  like  the  ghost  of 

Hamlet’s  father,  “Armed  from 
top  to  toe,”  but  with  this 
difference:  he  can  be  accom- 
modated, with  any  kind  of 

armor  and  of  whatsoever 
age. 

There  are  so  many  in- 
teresting bazaars  that  it 
would  be  impossible  to  men- 
tion them  here,  but  all  are  the 
scenes  of  intense  activity — the 
spice,  tobacco,  porcelain,  shoe, 

The  Armory  Bazaar 

and  so  on. 

The  Tchartchi  of  Constantinople  offers  to  the  student  a 
constant  and  most  interesting  study. 


The  Seraglio  Point 


FROM  THE  ORIENT 


it  more  majestically  over  the  Seven  Hills;  and  the  glimpse 
of  the  harbor  is  shut  in  by  a portion  of  one  of  the  quaintly- 
fashioned  houses  so  peculiar  to  the  locality.  In  the  distance 
rises  Mount  Olympus,  pale  with  its  eternal  snows ; with  one 
fantastic  rock  looming  out  of  the  blue  waters  immediately 
beneath  it,  like  a huge  marine  monster  sleeping  under  the 
still  sunshine.  To  the  left,  still  stretching  along  the  same  line  of 
coast,  cluster  the  nests  of  islets,  once  known  as  “Demon  Islands,” 
and  said  to  have  been  haunted  by  a foul  spirit. 

The  cooling  room  of  a 
Hamman  in  a Turkish  bath 
is  a most  delightful  place. 

No  luxury  which  the  East 
affords  is  so  thoroughly  en- 
joyed as  the  baths,  whether 
private  or  public.  The  bath 
house  is  the  center  for  social 
gossip  or  political  intrigue,  and 
is  a very  important  factor  in 
Oriental  life.  An  unabridged 
history  of  the  baths  would 
be  equivalent  to  a history  of 
the  Turkish  Empire. 

In  the  private  baths  especi- 
ally, all  that  wealth  and  art 
can  conceive  is  concentrated 
to  make  the  spot  a fairyland. 

The  cooling  room  is  one  of 
the  three  apartments  which, 
combined,  make  up  the  Turkish 
bath. 

Unless  one  has  had  the  op- 
portunity to  visit  one  of  these 
establishments,  no  conception  can  be  formed  of  what  they  are  like. 
The  bather,  upon  leaving  the  outer  hall,  is  supplied  with  shoes  or 
sandals  which  are  raised  several  inches  above  the  floor,  because 
the  inner  apartment  is  so  hot  that,  until  one  becomes  accustomed 
to  the  sulphurous  vapor  and  the  peculiar  conditions,  it  would  be 
impossible  to  touch  the  floor  with  naked  feet.  The  dense  vapor, 
the  shrill  cries  of  the  slaves,  the  murmur  of  their  mistresses  in 
conversation,  while  they  refresh  themselves  with  sweetmeats  and 
drinks,  all  combined  make  up  a picture  never  to  be  forgotten. 

The  old  women  who  hawk  the  sweets  and  drinks  frequently 
carry  as  many  love  letters  as  articles  for  sale. 

Eighty-three 


The  Cooling  Room 


RUGS  AND  CARPETS 


The  Ocmedian  is  an  extensive  plain,  beautifully  situated,  and  the 
view  from  which  is  very  grand.  The  plain  is  studded  over  with 
columns  of  stone  or  marble,  and  each  one  bears  an  inscription, 
some  in  gold.  They  are  the  records  of  the  archers;  not  always 


View  from  the  Ocmedian  of  Place  of  Arrows 


truthful. 
Sultan  Mah- 
moud was  pas- 
sionately fond 
of  the  sport 
o f archery, 
and  made  re- 
cords which  it 
is  scarcely  nec- 
essary to  say 
were  never 
beaten  in  his 
Empire.  His 
records  are 
wonderful 
even  for  Tur- 
key, but  there 

is  a story,  as  there  usually  is,  with  all  the  affairs  of  the  East. 

The  Sultan  never  allowed  a week  to  pass  without  practice. 
The  Court  was  ordered  to  attend  God’s  anointed  one.  After  the 
ruler  had  “sped  the  winged  arrow,”  the  members  of  the  Court 
were  invited,  and  it  would  have  been  a sad  mistake  if  any  in  his 
Court  had  gone  a greater  distance  than  he.  In  one  instance  the 
Sultan  shot  three  hundred  yards,  and  the  closest  to  that  was  two 
hundred,  and  that  shot  was  made  by  the  chief  archer  of  the  Court 
(wise  archer). 

It  was  the  custom  for  the  pages  of  the  Court  to  rush  forward, 
in  pursuit  of  the  arrow,  and  to  hold  it  up  when  secured,  so  that 
if  the  shot  was  a long  one,  the  spot  might  be  marked  by  a suit- 
able stone.  A prize  was  given  to  the  page  who  first  secured 
the  arrow,  and  this  race  wras  a peculiar  one,  for,  wise  in  their 
day  and  generation,  the  pages  learned  to  run  very  low,  and,  with 
experience,  contrived  to  pick  up  the  arrow  while  at  full  speed, 
without  being  discovered.  Carrying  it  for  some  distance  beyond 
the  spot  where  it  fell,  one  would  hold  it  up  in  triumph,  and  if 
the  distance  was  sufficiently  great,  a stone  was  erected. 


Eighty-four 


CHART  SYSTEM  SHOWING  THE  RUG-MAKING  LOCALITIES 


VO  M fO  fO  ^ to 


Eighty-jive 


Barker  Bros.,  The  Largest  House  Furnishing  Establishment  in  America 


